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0. Henderson's Buttress
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Achille's Heel T 
Bull Dog T,S 
Henderson T 
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 
No Guts, No Glory T 
Noonie Direct T 
Our Mine's I  T 
Pinky and the Brain T 
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 
Two Stoned T 

Achille's Heel 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bradley White, Ed Harrison
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 629
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009

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Scanned photo of Ted on the last pitch before the ...

Description 

The first pitch is a low angle (5-1) slab with no protection for 100+ft to a 1 bolt belay. After the slab up steeply on fragile 5-8) rock to the corner left. Climb corner until there is an exit left to reach short wall to the ledge with trees under a large ceiling. Traverse right across to the corner on the right, climb up to and around right a shallow ceiling onto a roof. Above roof climb to a large ledge to belay. From ledge move left to another corner and aid (A-1) or do crux free off of scary knifeblade first done by Ted Hammond . After corner jam between 2 blocks and go up right wall and belay. On the 4th pitch (5-5) head right and up to climb face beneath 'Muir Wall' (5-7) hand crack. After that belay. Used to proceed up and right to tree ledge beneath the final wall up and off of the cliff. Used to top off left of the Whitney Gilman Ridge. Last pitch and some of fourth pitch are gone. Fourth is doable but very dangerously run out. Last pitch is nowhere to be found in plain sight. We traversed to W.G.R. in 2000 to get off the climb. It used to be a decent climb and done several times.


Location 

Near to the right side of the Muir Buttress


Protection 

1 bolt, Bring small thinnest knifeblade to back up third pitch pin. lost arrows may be needed also besides that normal trad rack.



Photos of Achille's Heel Slideshow Add Photo
Scanned photo of myself leading the 1st pitch. Walk like an Egyptian.
Scanned photo of myself leading the 1st pitch. Wal...
Scanned photo of Ted leading the third crux pitch. Ted is beyond the crux. The rock here can be loosened up, care or misfortunate.  Stay straight ahead up steeply right to avoid mishaps.
Scanned photo of Ted leading the third crux pitch....
Scanned photo of Ted starting 2nd pitch. The climbs does has ambiance.
Scanned photo of Ted starting 2nd pitch. The climb...
Scanned photo of myself on our FFA. This is the 2nd pitch.
Scanned photo of myself on our FFA. This is the 2n...
Scanned photo of Ted leading 2nd pitch. Ted is almost at the same spot as I am photographed on the 2nd pitch.
Scanned photo of Ted leading 2nd pitch. Ted is alm...
The best part of this climb is lined in blue. The X'S are belays. Rappel is okay but no anchors.
BETA PHOTO: The best part of this climb is lined in blue. The ...
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