Achille's Heel 5.10- R
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Bradley White, Ed Harrison |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | bradley white on Jun 22, 2009 |
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Scanned photo of Ted on the last pitch before the ...
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Description The first pitch is a low angle (5-1) slab with no protection for 100+ft to a 1 bolt belay. After the slab up steeply on fragile 5-8) rock to the corner left. Climb corner until there is an exit left to reach short wall to the ledge with trees under a large ceiling. Traverse right across to the corner on the right, climb up to and around right a shallow ceiling onto a roof. Above roof climb to a large ledge to belay. From ledge move left to another corner and aid (A-1) or do crux free off of scary knifeblade first done by Ted Hammond . After corner jam between 2 blocks and go up right wall and belay. On the 4th pitch (5-5) head right and up to climb face beneath 'Muir Wall' (5-7) hand crack. After that belay. Used to proceed up and right to tree ledge beneath the final wall up and off of the cliff. Used to top off left of the Whitney Gilman Ridge. Last pitch and some of fourth pitch are gone. Fourth is doable but very dangerously run out. Last pitch is nowhere to be found in plain sight. We traversed to W.G.R. in 2000 to get off the climb. It used to be a decent climb and done several times.
Location Near to the right side of the Muir Buttress
Protection 1 bolt, Bring small thinnest knifeblade to back up third pitch pin. lost arrows may be needed also besides that normal trad rack.
Scanned photo of myself leading the 1st pitch. Wal...
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Scanned photo of Ted starting 2nd pitch. The climb...
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Scanned photo of Ted leading 2nd pitch. Ted is alm...
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Scanned photo of myself on our FFA. This is the 2n...
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Scanned photo of Ted leading the third crux pitch....
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BETA PHOTO: The best part of this climb is lined in blue. The ...
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