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Vampire Rock
Routes Sorted
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A.C.E. 
Blood Doll 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The 
Chupacabra 
Climb-Eye-Knight 
Crack of Desperation 
Fear of Sunlight 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The 
Heart of the Narrows 
Le Stat 
Monkey's Sister 
Monkey's Uncle 
Pin Cushion 
Stage Fright 
That's Weak 
Trash It and Move On 
Vampire, The 
Wanker 

A.C.E. 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: S. Sangdahl, J. Baldwin, 2000
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 24, 2005
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Ivan Rezucha on 'A.C.E.' at Vampire Rock in Boulde...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To the far left of the bottom end of Vampire Rock, one can find Monkey's Uncle. This distinctive route lies just left and down from a trashy-looking, left-facing corner, with a big boulder behind the base of it. It goes up past a series of roofs on large holds.

A.C.E. climbs up the first 20 feet of Monkey's Uncle, passing 3 bolts near the "pseudo arete" and then strikes out diagonally left (a few slings instead of draws here) to a larger roof, which requires some strength and coordination to pull through. No hidden holds, as chalk reveals them all, but the crux movement was not immediately obvious. Clip that next bolt from nice and high, not from on the crux crimper. After pulling so sharply left for a crux, the route continues sharply right to go to the anchor's on Monkey's Uncle, passing several more bolts and reaching the anchors. Lower off 70' or so to the ground.

This climb would be a devil to clean on rappel or lowering, and hard on the rope besides- better to have a second clean it or take another lap. Also, I thought that the large band of re-inforced holds up top on the right-hand traverse (obvious and unattractive brown glue) detracted from my enjoyment of the climb. Looking back, I am not entirely sure why these were not cleaned instead, as they might have gone into the creek, but not onto the road.


Protection 

12 bolts and chain anchor- this route wanders and with a few slings you can eliminate the drag almost entirely. Take a dozen draws and one each 1' and 2' runner.



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By Ben Collett
Aug 15, 2006

I tried cleaning this on the lower today, and it worked absolutely fine, so don't let Tony's comment deter you. One trick to rope drag reduction on this pitch is to back clean the first draw after the final overlap.