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Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Routes Sorted
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Anthurium S 
Body Lice TR 
Bold Finger T,TR 
Bowling Alley T 
Brother Jug T 
Central Park T 
Cinch Crack T 
Comeback Arete, The T 
Crab, The T 
Cracker Jack T 
Dead Left T 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 
Devo T 
Die Heeda Rule T 
Emergency Brake T 
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Self Abuse T 
Shallow Grave T 
Short One T 
Siberian Khatru T,TR 
Skip 'n' Go Naked T 
Slide, The T 
Squeamish, The T,TR 
Stay Hungry T 
Stop! T 
Stranglehold T 
Tekneek T 
Tombstone T 
Uninspiring Wall T 
Walk About T 
Werner Brothers' Roof T 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 

Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Eric Johnson, 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: not hot weather
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Apr 22, 2013

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During the Ace of Spades FA, photo by Hard Cor.

Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


The climbing is big fun, and in my opinion this would easily be a three star PG-13 route if the detached flake were 100% solid. It's not going anywhere, but I wouldn’t trust it for gear. To me, this makes it a little more serious than PG-13 and not quite worth three stars. Like Lemmy said, " know I'm born to lose, and gambling's for fools, but that's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever...."

Begin up technical face to the right of the tree starting Stay Hungry. A 5.10 move or two off the ground leads to fun, unprotected 5.8 slab for 25’ to the right-angling system that provides finger-sized gear and the broken band below the roof. From a stance at the band, find very good Loweball protection in a pod/slot to begin climbing out the overhanging dihedral. Climb crimpers to steep jugs and up a detached flake to an open hand jug (#3 Camalot) and up to a stance above the blocks and below a delicate dihedral with a small crack. Intricate slot/arête/face climbing takes you to the top. It feels Jalapeño spicy, but it could be more like Habanero?


This route climbs the overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of Anthurium and to the right of Stay Hungry, topping out just light of the Anthurium anchors to a ledge.


Gear: Standard Eldo rack including #1 and #2 Loweballs, micronuts.

Photos of Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ace of Spades FA, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades FA, Hard Cor Photography.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.

Comments on Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) Add Comment
Show which comments
By gregsmiller
From: Louisville
Apr 23, 2013

Nice work, Wayne! I looked at this a couple of years ago but never went back for the lead! Way to get after it on another, obvious, unclimbed line in Eldo!!
greg miller
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Apr 23, 2013

Nice send, Wayne! And nice photos by Cory.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Apr 24, 2013

I remember you showing me that last winter. Way to go.
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
May 16, 2013

I was up at Peanuts the other day and found out that there is already an Eldo route named 'Ace of Spades' up there (doh!). So I had to rename this rig, so there you go.

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