Ace of Hearts 5.10d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | 46and2 on Nov 22, 2006 |
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Nelson on TR on Ace of Hearts
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Description Fantastic thin route just left of Valentine's Day corner! Takes VERY thin gear and leading would only be for the seasoned trad climber IMHO. Great movement and easily toproped from the Valentine's Day anchors.
Location Start of route is about 10 feet left of Valentine's Day; follow thin cracks straight up face and rappel from anchors on ledge above.
Protection This gear; mostly small wires and brass nuts. No bolts on route but fixed anchors are shared with Valentine's Day!
watch out for bats in the cracks near the top!
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| Comments on Ace of Hearts |
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 13, 2008
rating: 5.10d PG13
| those who would lead this better be bold- the gear is thin and definitely not the best where its hard. ballnutz would probably be ideal for a route like this and likely provide some peace of mind. most should just TR it after leading Valentine's day.
great route, though- probably the best at the cliff. |
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c
| Led this today, small cams and one RP got me to the top just fine. |
By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Mar 10, 2010
rating: 5.10d PG13
| Definitely a fun climb--very technical. Gear was better than the guidebook description, but required some thought. I did break off a rather sizable hold, but it doesn't seem to have affected the route too much (partner followed it just fine). |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| It's arguable if this route really deserves the PG-13 rating. Yes, the gear is thin but the hardest moves are protected by a good small cam- albeit the cam is at your feet when the hard stuff is finally over. I will second John in saying that ballnuts would work very well if you wanted to sew this thing up tight. Very good movement and the rock is surprisingly OK considering the rest of the rock on the wall. |
By Killing In The Name Of
Feb 1, 2012
| Dude, if you think the rock on this pile is good, we gotta get you out a LOT further in the canyons....
There's gear on it, I took ballnuts, did the whole sewing it up dance, still some ghetto unfabbalusness happening. If you think that those cams would hold a good sized fall, let's go do the haulbag test-my pink rock choss detector says it's take-worthy but would break under a decent whip.
Fun climb, but just cause gear goes in doesn't make it safe. IE bolts in the Fishers, for instance...or the Hamlet. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 2, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| Whoa, I never said the rock was "good." It's certainly not Challenger or Brownstone Wall quality but... I have fallen on gear placed in worse. Just a good route. Nothin' more than that. |
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Jan 24, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c
| I didn't have a book but needed a rest day after epin so I headed to moderate mecca and got on this thing. Whoops!
Thin is right! I tried and failed to place my grey 00 TCU multiple times, fell on a small nut, and shoved a couple cams in the undercling for the finish. Technical for such a short climb |
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