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ACE anchor replacement: final Vertigo rap
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By Gregger Man
Dec 18, 2013
gg

New Vertigo rap anchor
New Vertigo rap anchor




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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Dec 18, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

Really nicely done. Thanks!


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By Steve Levin
From Boulder, CO
Dec 18, 2013
Sundevil Chimney, Titan

Hats off to Greg for all the excellent bolt replacement he's been doing in Eldo!

If you come across any bolts in Eldo that need replacing, please contact ACE with your information.

www.aceeldo.org

https://www.facebook.com/ActionCommitteForEldorado

Climb Safe!


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By Greg D
From Here
Dec 19, 2013
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Thank you very much Greg for your hard work. Nicely done.

On a side note, is there a reason that an event that took place in this area on Sunday is not getting coverage?


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Dec 19, 2013

nice work- i wish the developers in red rock had bothered to use bolts that we could remove like that! hats off to you, good sir, for all your hard work!


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By Gregger Man
Dec 19, 2013
gg

Greg D wrote:
...On a side note, is there a reason that an event that took place in this area on Sunday is not getting coverage?


None that I know of. It appears that it was another common rappel accident that would have been avoided by a middle mark or a bi-pattern rope (or knots in the ends). Luckily he wasn't too terribly far from the ground when he went off one of his strands and zipped. We arrived about 10 or 15 minutes later with the intention of replacing that anchor.
Best wishes to the injured - heal up.


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By Gregger Man
Dec 19, 2013
gg

John Wilder wrote:
nice work- i wish the developers in red rock had bothered to use bolts that we could remove like that! hats off to you, good sir, for all your hard work!

Experiment with a Greenlee punch driver on those pesky studs. Not sure how it will behave in that soft rock, but it's worth trying. We're going to do some extraction tests on a portable sample of Indian Creek stone this weekend.


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Dec 22, 2013
West Overhang

Thanks as always for your volunteer work, Greg.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Dec 22, 2013

Gregger Man wrote:
Experiment with a Greenlee punch driver on those pesky studs. Not sure how it will behave in that soft rock, but it's worth trying. We're going to do some extraction tests on a portable sample of Indian Creek stone this weekend.


I would suspect it'd be fine- Red Rock is pretty good rock alot of the time. And even if it blew out some rock, we still have to redrill the hole bigger. Unfortunately, I can't afford one of those things- I could buy two or three Bosch's for the price of one Greenlee!

Thanks again for all the hard work- its always appreciated, even from those of us who dont get a chance to climb in your area!


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By ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Dec 22, 2013
ducking ropes at Copper

Thanks Greg! Your hard work should provide decades of climbing fun for many.


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By Gregger Man
Dec 22, 2013
gg

John Wilder wrote:
I would suspect it'd be fine- Red Rock is pretty good rock alot of the time. And even if it blew out some rock, we still have to redrill the hole bigger. Unfortunately, I can't afford one of those things- I could buy two or three Bosch's for the price of one Greenlee! Thanks again for all the hard work- its always appreciated, even from those of us who dont get a chance to climb in your area!

In soft rock you might not even need the Greenlee - Matt got a 3/8 - 16 threaded SDS adapter, added a coupler nut and voila!: we have a bolt spinner. In granite this technique weakens the grip enough to pull out the stud with the Greenlee, but you can't spin the bolt all the way out of the hole with just the drill.
Here's a video from yesterday's tests on an Indian Creek rock:


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Dec 22, 2013

that is pretty slick. definitely worth a try- i hate having to chop all those bolts and drill new holes for every bolt i replace. thanks for the tip!


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By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 22, 2013

Looking at the new anchor I see a big problem. One of the things I would strongly suggest is to not tighten the bolts all the way until you put the rope through and weight the anchor. This process will properly align the hangers as per the direction of the forces put on them and lessen the risks of the bolts loosening over time.


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By Gregger Man
Dec 22, 2013
gg

Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:
Looking at the new anchor I see a big problem. One of the things I would strongly suggest is to not tighten the bolts all the way until you put the rope through and weight the anchor. This process will properly align the hangers as per the direction of the forces put on them and lessen the risks of the bolts loosening over time.

I'll re-align them next time I'm in the area with a torque wrench. I don't think the slight angle difference is enough to loosen them any time soon.


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By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Dec 22, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.

The bolts on Apple Strudel are in big need of updating. The first two bolts have welded shut bolt hangers with very dire consequence if they fail. The crux bolt has a real hanger but the nut is very loose.


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By Gregger Man
Jan 11, 2014
gg

Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:
Looking at the new anchor I see a big problem. One of the things I would strongly suggest is to not tighten the bolts all the way until you put the rope through and weight the anchor. This process will properly align the hangers as per the direction of the forces put on them and lessen the risks of the bolts loosening over time.

Per your request - we adjusted the angles of the hangers.
Adjusted angles on hangers.
Adjusted angles on hangers.


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By Gregger Man
Jan 11, 2014
gg

Jeff G. wrote:
The bolts on Apple Strudel are in big need of updating. The first two bolts have welded shut bolt hangers with very dire consequence if they fail. The crux bolt has a real hanger but the nut is very loose.

Looked at these today. Need to go back with a different toolkit for removing 1/2" Rawls. Updated the first bolt on 'Untouchables'.


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By Buff Johnson
Jan 11, 2014
smiley face

Nice work, Greg.


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