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ACE anchor replacement: Chockstone Chimney
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By Gregger Man
Dec 1, 2013
gg

New anchors for the Chockstone Chimney rap. 1/2" x 4.5" SS Power-bolts with SS double-ring hangers.
New anchors for the Chockstone Chimney rap. 1/2" x 4.5" SS Power-bolts with SS double-ring hangers.

The previous hardware was 3/8" x 3.5" carbon steel with Metolius fat hangers. Both were spinners.

(I unfortunately botched much of the video by having it pointed too high. All you get is 30 seconds:)


In addition, Matt replaced the anchors on Darkness 'til Dawn last Saturday:


Short and rusty. They're 2.5" long, but only about 1.5" was in the rock and they were both very bent.
Short and rusty. They're 2.5" long, but only about 1.5" was in the rock and they were both very bent.


New 1/2" SS hardware. Much better.
New 1/2" SS hardware. Much better.


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By gunter
Dec 3, 2013

your tha man!


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By Wally
From Denver
Dec 4, 2013

Thanks Gregger and Matt!


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Dec 5, 2013
Just a teaser

Thanks guys! Any luck with removing those mammut ring bolts (besides using a dremmel)?


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By Gregger Man
Dec 5, 2013
gg

Monty wrote:
Thanks guys! Any luck with removing those mammut ring bolts (besides using a dremmel)?


Yes.
You are left with a shallow 5/8" hole. The next bolt would need to be a glue-in and not a mechanical bolt. We still have some questions about whether our method pulverizes/weakens the rock at the lip. We are still refining the method before using it on a route.
Here is the jig we tested successfully in February along with some early failed experiments in core drilling around stud bolts:


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 5, 2013
...

Where is it that you are doing that "Testing"?

Public land?


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Dec 5, 2013
Just a teaser

Interesting video on the ring bolts. Luckily there's not too many of those around to worry about. Coming from a guy who has no experience with glue in's; In theory would the glue solve the issues of weakened rock (unless of course it was a large fracture internally).

Thanks again for researching these methods and putting them to use. It's awesome to think that same hole replacements aren't limited to triplex and 5 piece bolts.


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By Mike Morin
From On the Road
Dec 5, 2013
Lincoln Lake

Locker wrote:
Where is it that you are doing that "Testing"? Public land?


I was able to Greg and Matt access to the North Quarry on North Table to conduct these tests.


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By Gregger Man
Dec 5, 2013
gg

Monty wrote:
...In theory would the glue solve the issues of weakened rock (unless of course it was a large fracture internally)...


I have no experimental data to go on, but my guess would be 'no'.
I suspect you could get a failure like the soft rock crushing situation on page 4: www.safeclimbing.org/education/SoftRockBolting.pdf
The hydraulic punch driver can press against the rock with several thousand pounds of force. The ring bolts are beefy enough to sometimes hold until the ring flattens and breaks - that's a scary huge load. The 3/8" studs have all slipped out or snapped off at much lower forces.


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