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ACE anchor replacement: Chockstone Chimney
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Dec 1, 2013
gg
New anchors for the Chockstone Chimney rap. 1/2&qu...
New anchors for the Chockstone Chimney rap. 1/2" x 4.5" SS Power-bolts with SS double-ring hangers.

The previous hardware was 3/8" x 3.5" carbon steel with Metolius fat hangers. Both were spinners.

(I unfortunately botched much of the video by having it pointed too high. All you get is 30 seconds:)


In addition, Matt replaced the anchors on Darkness 'til Dawn last Saturday:


Short and rusty. They're 2.5" long, but only ...
Short and rusty. They're 2.5" long, but only about 1.5" was in the rock and they were both very bent.


New 1/2" SS hardware. Much better.
New 1/2" SS hardware. Much better.
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
793 points
Dec 3, 2013
your tha man! gunter
Joined Mar 2, 2011
13 points
Dec 4, 2013
Thanks Gregger and Matt! Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
Dec 5, 2013
Starting up the steep 7b crux of Süpervitamin.
Thanks guys! Any luck with removing those mammut ring bolts (besides using a dremmel)? Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,256 points
Dec 5, 2013
gg
Monty wrote:
Thanks guys! Any luck with removing those mammut ring bolts (besides using a dremmel)?


Yes.
You are left with a shallow 5/8" hole. The next bolt would need to be a glue-in and not a mechanical bolt. We still have some questions about whether our method pulverizes/weakens the rock at the lip. We are still refining the method before using it on a route.
Here is the jig we tested successfully in February along with some early failed experiments in core drilling around stud bolts:

Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
793 points
Dec 5, 2013
...
Where is it that you are doing that "Testing"?

Public land?
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Dec 5, 2013
Starting up the steep 7b crux of Süpervitamin.
Interesting video on the ring bolts. Luckily there's not too many of those around to worry about. Coming from a guy who has no experience with glue in's; In theory would the glue solve the issues of weakened rock (unless of course it was a large fracture internally).

Thanks again for researching these methods and putting them to use. It's awesome to think that same hole replacements aren't limited to triplex and 5 piece bolts.
Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,256 points
Dec 5, 2013
Lincoln Lake
Locker wrote:
Where is it that you are doing that "Testing"? Public land?


I was able to Greg and Matt access to the North Quarry on North Table to conduct these tests.
Mike Morin
From On the Road
Joined Nov 4, 2007
1,279 points
Dec 5, 2013
gg
Monty wrote:
...In theory would the glue solve the issues of weakened rock (unless of course it was a large fracture internally)...


I have no experimental data to go on, but my guess would be 'no'.
I suspect you could get a failure like the soft rock crushing situation on page 4: safeclimbing.org/education/Sof...
The hydraulic punch driver can press against the rock with several thousand pounds of force. The ring bolts are beefy enough to sometimes hold until the ring flattens and breaks - that's a scary huge load. The 3/8" studs have all slipped out or snapped off at much lower forces.
Gregger Man
Joined Aug 15, 2004
793 points


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