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Accident at Rumney 4-19-09
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 19, 2009
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

Today at Rumney (Armed+Dangerous Area) a seasoned climber was lowered off the end of his rope by another seasoned climber. Both climber had joked regarding the length of the rope/climb prior to starting the route.

The climber fell onto his head and upper back from 12 feet, and sustained only a small head injury and some apparent nerve damage to his arms/pelvis. The climber was extricated by 15+ climbers and 10+ rescuers, never lost consciousness and it appears that he will be just fine after some rest and relaxation. This climber was lucky not only to fall from where he did , but how he did and with so many people around.

Let this be a lesson to tie a knot in the end of your rope, or at least look at the end when lowering off a climb (especially one you haven't been on many times). Also, remember no matter how long you have been climbing it is always important to practice safety to the best of your ability.


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By Chad Laflamme
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 19, 2009
route finding on whitehorse is cake...

I was wondering what had happened. I saw the ambulances. I'm glad the climber didn't have any more extensive injuries. Gotta be careful on those big routes on main cliff. I know I have to cut off a section of my rope due to damage. Best I make some kind of obvious mark so I don't make the same mistake.


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By E thatcher
From Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 19, 2009
First ascent of the metal arches in my school library...Holderness School

ladd do you know what route this was on? Is it possible he did both pitches of one of the two pitch routes without knowing?


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By Luke W.
From Prescott
Apr 19, 2009
Avi

Chad Laflamme wrote:
Best I make some kind of obvious mark so I don't make the same mistake.


Best just heed Ladd's advice. Never just rely on a mark on your rope.


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 19, 2009
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Wow glad everone will be ok. knots in the end of ropes are important always tie them on longer routes


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By David Aguasca!
From New York
Apr 19, 2009
Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST

I hope the climber makes a fast and full recovery...

I second the knot idea, especially if you've ever shortened your rope...I think I'm going to start doing that from now on...


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By Matt Desenberg
From Wells, Me
Apr 20, 2009

Glad to hear they will be ok. Be careful, everyone.


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By mag
Apr 20, 2009

matthewWallace wrote:
s tie them on longer routes


Which ones are longer routes?


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 20, 2009
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

mag wrote:
Which ones are longer routes?


I know sesame street is a sixty meter rap... any multi pitch route...


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Apr 21, 2009

The new anchors for Armed and dangerous might be close with a less than 60m rope too. Metamorphosis might be longer too.


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By clemay
From Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2009

Does anyone know how long a rope they were using? The armed and dangerous/off my medication linkup is doable with 60m rope. I hope for a speedy recovery!!

Chris


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By Luke to Zuke
From Anchorage
Apr 21, 2009
Middle Troll

Is that area a sport wall?


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By E thatcher
From Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 21, 2009
First ascent of the metal arches in my school library...Holderness School

lucaskrajnik wrote:
Is that area a sport wall?


yes


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By Mark Gibson
From Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2009
The Business on Chain Reaction

It is a good idea to ALWAYS tie a knot in the end of your rope. Even if you are doing a four bolt, 20ft route with a 70m rope. "PRACTICE MAKES PERMANENT!"


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By Steve Bourdeau
Apr 21, 2009

Most sport climbers I know use a rope bag. It's useful because it keeps your rope cleaner, AND there's always one end of the rope tied to the bag itself. The bag WILL jam in the ATC. It's a win-win situation. as an added bonus, the rope-bag let's you manage better the amount of climbing each end of your rope handles so you can rotate and abuse both ends at the same pace and avoid having to shorten the rope prematurely. win-win-win.


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Apr 21, 2009

That's what i do.. and even less about the bag jamming.. but you'll notice if it's either lifting up or sliding across the ground. it's also an overhand knot that should stop.

best way, especially at rumney is to realize what cliff you are at and which ones you can get down with 60m and be really careful if you have less than that.


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By Mike Thompson
From Manchester NH
Apr 23, 2009
cereal killer 5.11b

Ladd Raine wrote:
.....The climber was extricated by 15+ climbers and 10+ rescuers, ....


im in the process of finishing up my EMT cert and we talked about how its crazy that if one person needs to be rescued the amount of time and man power it takes... a ratio of 1:25+ is not a good one and A&D wall isnt even that bad of terrain... think of a rescue of someone of cannon down that scree field... crazy....


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By Luke W.
From Prescott
Apr 23, 2009
Avi

Mike Thompson wrote:
think of a rescue of someone of cannon down that scree field... crazy....


short-haul and you're done


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 23, 2009
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Or from something on washington/presidentials that would be a gnar rescue


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By Mike Thompson
From Manchester NH
Apr 24, 2009
cereal killer 5.11b

Luke Wakefield wrote:
short-haul and you're done


um im not quite sure you could consider walking someone down while they have a neck brace and are strapped to a longboard ... probably in a basket and trying to keep their c-spine strait while you clammer over car sized boulders for about half a mile a "short-haul"....


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Apr 24, 2009

Edit: see below.. i had my terms mixed up

They got someone down from the Hinterlands last year without that many people. And that is far more difficult than Main cliff trail


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By Luke W.
From Prescott
Apr 24, 2009
Avi

short haul or long line is a helicopter operation. very useful in difficult terrain, when a litter carry would be impractical. the pt is suspended by ropes underneath the helicopter assisted by one rescuer.


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