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Access Threatened!
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By Clifton Santiago
Dec 17, 2013

So access to my local crag has been threatened. It's not a particularly spectacular climbing spot, but it is close to home and there is a crack at the southern end that I just can't get enough of, and two medium size peaks to the north.

I met with the land manager the other day, and her complaint was that I have been making quick after work or early morning runs to my favorite crack, and wearing a bit of a trail. She insisted I spend more time at the north end of the formation and not only come in and out at the south, or access to my favorite crack would be denied.

I could do this, spend more time around the peaks, but they're unremarkable and not all that big. They don't do much for me, and aren't even really good for conditioning. I really just like to hit that crack. Should I be a good steward of the land and go through the motions of fulfilling her request even though it does nothing for me other than ensure future access to the crack line? There are plenty of other cracks out there, for sure, maybe I'm wasting my time fixating on this particular one?. Or should I just continue to hit the crack whenever I want and risk losing all access, not just for me, but for future climbers? The land manager has also stated that if I don't comply to her wishes, she will have trouble trusting other climbers in the future.

What would you do?


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By Tom-o Sapien
From World's largest trailer park
Dec 17, 2013
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze

Tweek those peaks every chance you get or risk losing your cherished splitter


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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Dec 17, 2013
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...

To give you solid advice, we need to see a picture of this....."land manager"


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By Scott M. McNamara
From Tucson, Arizona
Dec 17, 2013
One Way Sunset

www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.4861253/k.BDBB/Home.>>>


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By Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Dec 17, 2013
Dreamweaver

Perhaps you should wear in some trail at another crack with bigger peaks, she may change her mind, you may grow to like the other crack.

Who nose?


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By Sendstown
Dec 17, 2013

sampling other crack in the area is a good idea, as long as you can find it fast. You don't want to wait too long in between hits of those cracks. Unless of course the crack you have now is more potent and cheaper than all the other cracks. Maybe you should just switch to sport climbing.


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By nicelegs
From Denver
Dec 17, 2013

It's possible that you've been on that crack enough that you feel comfortable trying it without protection.

While I certainly enjoy that freedom on occasion, you need to be aware of the consequences.


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By aSteel
Dec 17, 2013

Landowner's wishes win, every time. It's important to respect their wishes, and through conversation come to an agreement they are comfortable with that you and the climbing community will uphold. Sometimes that means taking the longer way around. Sometimes that means losing access, which makes the longer way around look much more attractive. The Access Fund has great resources for this if you wish, to expand on Scott McNamara's link:

www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5040469/k.5E0D/Climb>>>

I've found that making suggestions can be okay, if they're well presented, but that ultimately landowners are the most generous when they feel we are fighting to support their concerns. Good luck.


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By Greg Halliday
From Spanish Fork, UT
Dec 17, 2013

Man, you guys are good.


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By Dan G0D5H411
From Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 18, 2013
Dan on Hurricane

Sometimes mountains aren't for everyone. In this day and age, it's OK to admit that you prefer bulbous desert towers. No one's going to judge you for that. And I hear there's some dude stranded out in that area, looking to make a few bucks any way possible...


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By mrnutty
Dec 18, 2013

Have you considered inviting other climbers to enjoy your crag? If one party was working the northern areas while you were hitting the crack line, that would even out the wear, would it not?

Also allows you some valuable simulclimbing practice, which is always a useful skill if you're looking to move fast on easy terrain.


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By Keithb00ne
From Las Vegas, NV
Dec 18, 2013
Grand Teton

This thread would be a lot more useful with pictures.


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By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 18, 2013

If you are going to go do it, try bringing a bunch of friends to run quick laps in the crack (maybe even simul it) but save enough energy to finish on the face. Then send a few people over to enjoy the mountains. The owner will appreciate the diversity, not focusing wear on one site, and may even like face action better than the crack. At least this way everywhere gets abused the same, albeit by a train of people when it does go. Just make sure to protect it properly so no one gets hurt and clean up before you leave.


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Dec 18, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life

If you follow any of the advice in this thread - I'm pretty sure you'll be finding yourself having to solo it.


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Dec 18, 2013
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

It is too hard to judge without any pictures. Upload a couple and use the topo tool on this site to show us your favorite lines, including the peaks and crack of course.

You can trust the MP community to judge whether its worth all of this communication with the manager.


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Dec 18, 2013
Just a teaser

Just sneak in while the landowner is sleeping...


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Dec 18, 2013
Lone goat..

Dan G0D5H411 wrote:
In this day and age, it's OK to admit that you prefer bulbous desert towers. No one's going to judge you for that.


Oh I can't wait to judge someone for admitting that!


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By Jcastleberry
Dec 18, 2013

I would follow her wishes. If access is denied you will be stuck at home conditioning on your woody.


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By Aturboford
Dec 18, 2013

Not to be harsh but it seems like an obvious choice to listen to the land manager. She is threatening to restrict access based on your actions and you have to ask whether you should listen to her?


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By David Barbour
From Longmont, CO
Dec 18, 2013

go barefoot and leave no trace


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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Dec 19, 2013
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow

My wife and I discussed this over breakfast this morning, and she had some suggestions you might consider:

1) have you thought about teaching the land manager to climb? She could maybe climb at the north end while you project the south.

2) while the ethics are debatable, if you are willing to make a long term commitment to working at the crag and maintaining access, you might look into enhancing the lines at the north end to make them more interesting.

Good luck.


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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Dec 19, 2013
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow

Not that this happens at MP.com.
Not that this happens at MP.com.


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By Avalon'cha
From your girlfriend's bedroom
Dec 19, 2013

Hank Caylor wrote:
Oh I can't wait to judge someone for admitting that!

Ok, I'm secure enough to say that I would LOVE to be out west, running laps up & down those grand desert towers with my wife, or anyone else who decided to join in on the fun. Quite frankly, I'm getting a bit bored with these stubby granite domes in the SE. Laurel Knob is the only thing big enough to satiate my needs around here anymore:)


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Dec 19, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life

I don't get it. Are you guys talking about climbing or what?


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By evan h
From Denver, CO
Dec 20, 2013
Troll Cave (V3), Three Sisters Park.

Solid gold.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2013
Bocan

Access threatened sounds a little dramatic...Sounds a little more like your neighbor asking you not to cut across the grass.

Doing what she asks = access not threatened.


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