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BETA PHOTO: Access Route area on Main Rock.
A short, easy way to access the summit and anchors on Main Rock. Unfortunately, the route is almost as exciting as the name.
From the right end of the grassy ledge atop the buttress, place a cam in a good crack up and to the right and start up the face. Climb the flake up and left until you hit a vertical crack. Follow the easy crack to the top. Rappel Route is just to the right, and there are anchors on the summit to the left.
Scramble up to the top of the buttress in front of Main Rock's east face, and move to the right side of the grassy ledge. Look for a series of vertical groves in the rock - Access Route starts just to the right of those groves.
Light rack, medium sized gear. You can rappel from anchors on top of the summit, or from the horizontal bridge of rock above the Rappel Route.
From: Fairbanks, AK
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
I personally think that Major Groove is more fun as an access route to the top of Main Rock. The 5.5 lieback could be a good way to get your head together for the ubiquitous lichen and moss found on most climbs here.