Acceptable Rope Marking Pens?
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Any advice as to which pens, other than the Blue Water brand, are safe to use for marking a rope's halfway point? Thanks... |
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According to studies I've seen, there are no pens that safely |
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The one study I heard of found that ropes marked were slightly less strong if the mark fell directly and squarely on an edge. Since it is much more likely that you could rappel off the ends of your rope due to them being uneven, it's a much better bet to just mark the thing with a Sharpie and not concern yourself with this issue IMHO. |
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This info came from an article in either Climbing or R & I, a few years ago. It identified the following as acceptable rope marking pens: the Carter (brand) MARKS ALOT; the Sanford SHARPIE; the Binney Smith MAGIC MARKER. Bluewater used to sell a rope marking pen, also. Accurate info in the magazine article? I've used the Sharpie.... |
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This is the much debated topic. |
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Andrew Carson wrote:This info came from an article in either Climbing or R & I, a few years ago. It identified the following as acceptable rope marking pens: the Carter (brand) MARKS ALOT; the Sanford SHARPIE; the Binney Smith MAGIC MARKER. Bluewater used to sell a rope marking pen, also. Accurate info in the magazine article? I've used the Sharpie....The issue with this is that the manufacturer may change the solvent used in the marker at any time. That could lead to unpredictable results, without testing. This risk is not present with a marker designed by and for the rope manufacturer. Edit to add: Seems like this should relocated to the climbing gear forum. |
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I also use sharpies and never had any trouble. |
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Sergio P wrote:I also use sharpies and never had any trouble.I guess that's kind of like saying you don't wear your seatbelt and you never needed it (because you were never in an accident). However, if articles are destructively testing ropes with sharpie markings, that's different. My comment above, however, is one I have seen listed as stated by the marker manufacturers. Search on MP, SuperTopo, Rockclimbing, etc. I'm out. |
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Good point Avery. I also think that a sharpie cost $2 and the rope marker costs only a few bucks more. So it is cheap insurance and peace of mind to have the right gear. |
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Thank you all very much for your input and time. There certainly are some considerations to be made. Mr. Stich was completely correct however in illustrating the death count attributed to rope handling negligence as compared to rope failure. The rope happens to be a beal product so i'll be contacting them. |
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A blanket warning was issued in 2002 by the UIAA. |
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Richard Radcliffe wrote:A blanket warning was issued in 2002 by the UIAA. Here's a summary by the Alpine Club of Canada. Note that Mammut found that the Beal pen caused rope weakening.Quoting from the Alpine Club of Canada report: In the tests the ropes were marked and the marked area was placed at the orifice plate in the standard UIAA drop test... Weakening of the rope occurs only if the marked area is loaded in the fall. How many times have you fallen and weighted the middle of the rope over a biner or an edge? Never? I see... Don't worry about things that just aren't going to happen. Worry about rapping off the ends of the rope because you don't have it precisely centered on rappel. My recommendation: spend the extra bucks and get a bi-pattern rope instead of dicking around with marking pens or dental floss. You'll never go back. |
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PMI says to use the Sharpie TEC marker |
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Is 12 years a new MP thread resurrection record? |
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And still the same truth: Lotta guys have died from rapping off the end of their rope. No guys have died from marking the middle with a sharpie... |
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Marc801 C wrote: Is 12 years a new MP thread resurrection record? Are you still climbing on a figure-8? ;-) |
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+1 Beal Rope Maker |
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food dye? beet juice? for a dark colored rope - no guess as to what might work. You could use a sewing needle and insert some dental floss threads to act as a marker.....much like tell-tails on sailboat rigging |
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Brett Gilmour wrote: Do you mean the knot or the belay/rap device? |
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Marc801 C wrote: Funny answer. Reminded me of this commercial: |
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I have a BD rope that the middle mark was completely gone and emailed BD about it. They said that the Beal marker was what they recommend. I also asked them about an idea I had about using canned beet juice as it is all natural and they said that it was a good idea and that they saw no problems with it. I used some beet juice from non pickled beets and it has been working great and is still there after a rope wash. |