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Acadia: partner, advice, guidebook?

Original Post
Tim McGivern · · Medford, ma · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 12,579

I'm headed to Acadia for the week of August 22 with my family. Looking to get out climbing at least one day. Looking for a partner. I've been climbing for about 20 years and enjoy trad and bouldering. I currently would lead up to 5.10 and follow 5.11. I've never been to Acadia before so I'm also looking for some general advice on what not to miss. I'm also wondering if I need the new guide if I'm only climbing a day or two. What do you think?

A bit about me: I live and climb mostly in Mass. I have two young boys and climbed more trad before they came along. Visiting a place like this I'll want to get on a classic or two, but could have fun exploring new ground too.

Thanks,
Tim

Tedk · · elliottsburg pa · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

had my 1st acadia experience a few weeks ago, climbed at otter cliffs on a very overcast morning which was kind surreal with the water below the dinging sound of a bayou out there somewhere, only a few other people there at the same time, rock was kind of damp but very good, did some 5.6-5.10 routes. then in the afternoon went over to the precipice, did old town and story of O. there was another route to the left of old town we went up but i cant remember the name. i went the guide route so i could put on some mileage. i used atlantic climbing school had seth for a private day trip which i highly recommend if you cant find a partner and have the funds. its well worth the cost to have a knowledgeable person take you out. if you do find a partner hit up otter cliffs 1st thing in the morning before 9am. its the go to spot since its an easy 5 min walk from the parking lot and most of the guides take people there, we went back the next day and it was a zoo becuase it was nice and sunny out, then go over to the precipice in the afternoon as the sun will mostly be off the wall by then. good luck its a great place to climb and i cant wait to go back next year

Rob p · · south hampton nh · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

hey tim I cant get out there but I have the guide book if you want to borrow it pm me. I live off 95 in nh.

Tim McGivern · · Medford, ma · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 12,579

Thanks for responding you guys! I'll let you know if I need to borrow your book, but I'm thinking if I'm climbing only a day I can get by without it.

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

was there the past two years on vacation climbing. Otter is awesome for dropping some rope and climbing with unforgettable views. Great Head was awesome with some harder climbs that I top rope soloed on the bolted climbs. Spent more time hanging and looking at the view than climbing. Cananda cliffs has some sick and Hard (for me) sport routes. 5.10+. I went there with the intention of climbing one day of the family vacation and ended up climbing every day wither it was 6am, with the fam, or an hour befor cocktail hour! You're gonna fall in love!

Have fun!

Tim McGivern · · Medford, ma · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 12,579

Bump. Leaving for Acadia in a week and still trying to arrange a partner.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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