Mountain Project: Climbing Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

Getting There

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you�ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Acadia National Park:

Wafer Step 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Precipice

The Great Chimney 5.5 TR, 60 feet Otter Cliffs

Story of O 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet The Precipice

Chlitlin Corner 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet The Precipice

Old Town 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Precipice

Bartleby 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Precipice

Morning Glory 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove

Rock Lobster 5.9 TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Otter Cliffs

Recollections of Pacifica 5.9 Trad, 50 feet The Precipice

Green Mt. Breakdown 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet The Precipice

Return to Forever 5.9+ Trad, 95 feet The Precipice

Guillotine 5.10a/b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Otter Cliffs

Fear of Flying 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet The Precipice

A Dare by the Sea 5.10b/c PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Otter Cliffs

Head Arete 5.10+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Great Head : Left wall

Connecticut Crack 5.11a Trad, 70 feet The Precipice

Maniacal Depression 5.11c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet The Precipice

Pipe Dreams 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Precipice

The FishScale 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Great Head : The Cavern

Dragon Fish 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Great Head : The Cavern

Comments on Acadia National Park

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2013

By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 6, 2008

"Acadia- A climbers Guide" by Jeff Butterfield very handy.

By steve damboise
From: boulder colorado
Nov 21, 2008

I'm wondering if you guys or gals have started bolting routes here anywhere! on the island there's potential everywhere .( LETS PROGRESS THE SPORT !!!!! )

By Ian Dorko
Apr 22, 2009

steve, this: www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/climbingregulations.htm might explain why there isn't a lot of bolting on the island.

By steitz
From: midcoast, maine
Feb 22, 2010

Seconding that Acadia - A Climber's Guide by Jeff Butterfield is a must have resource.

By Couloirman
Feb 8, 2011

Now that the Butterfield book is hard to find, whats the best guidebook to get for the area?

By Justin Sanford
From: Broadalbin, New York
Jul 19, 2011

Anyone have any detailed information on the bouldering in the park and the surrounding areas? I am trying to plan a week long trip up there and want to maximize our time/trip to see the best the area has to offer. Thanks in advance!

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 7, 2011

Don't bolt! Go to Rumney if you want to clip bolts...once you've climbed all the routes there then start thinking about bolting here. Or...Top Rope it's no less hard core than sport climbing.

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jun 14, 2012

As an Acadian it is my duty to inform you guys on the history of the name. =)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acadians

Now how many of you knew that Cajun comes from 'Cadien' that comes from 'Acadien'?

Jeff Butterfield failed to mention anything about the Acadians in the 'Area History' which I think is unfortunate. In his defense, Acadians never lived on the Island. Nevertheless, if you use Acadia, you should talk about Acadians in the history of your book.

By Russ Elias
Aug 7, 2012

I am heading out to Acadia state park in a couple weeks with some newer climbers. What are some good areas to go to for beginners? I have been doing research and it looks like otter cliffs has a lot of route that are 5.5-5.8. Also is there anywhere out there to rent any gear. A couple people need shoes possibly.

By jim.dangle
Apr 4, 2013

Bouldering website with some extra info:

boulderacadia.weebly.com/index.html

Jim

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Acadia National Park

Description

Getting There

The Classics