Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.
There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.
Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.
A excellent long finger crack!This climb follows the plumb line that Wafer Step (5.5) joins at the half-point of this wall.Enjoy moderate moves until you reach a point where the crack squeezes down and won't accept fingers, then pull the crux face moves and enjoy the easier ground above....[more]Browse More Classics in ME
Anyone have any detailed information on the bouldering in the park and the surrounding areas? I am trying to plan a week long trip up there and want to maximize our time/trip to see the best the area has to offer. Thanks in advance!
Now how many of you knew that Cajun comes from 'Cadien' that comes from 'Acadien'?
Jeff Butterfield failed to mention anything about the Acadians in the 'Area History' which I think is unfortunate. In his defense, Acadians never lived on the Island. Nevertheless, if you use Acadia, you should talk about Acadians in the history of your book.
I am heading out to Acadia state park in a couple weeks with some newer climbers. What are some good areas to go to for beginners? I have been doing research and it looks like otter cliffs has a lot of route that are 5.5-5.8. Also is there anywhere out there to rent any gear. A couple people need shoes possibly.
Hi All - I am working on a new guidebook to Acadia and am currently in the process of researching FA information. If anyone has any information on the subject, I'd love to hear about it. Additionally, I'm open to any other comments you may have regarding a new guidebook to the area.
Hi Grant, hope the new guide is moving on......thought you might be interested in a Limey's viewpoint based on a few Acadia visits. The Butterfield guide was pretty good for getting you to the routes themselves. In spite of a few upgradings, Acadia grades seemed a bit tougher than elsewhere in the NE, although I always visit in mid summer when it's humid and greasy ! Rock quality at the Precipice is as good as anywhere, while at Otter Cliff it seemed a bit fissile; particularly after the departure of Razor Crack. As to specific routes: Wafer Step ** 5.6 Recollections of Pacifica ** 5.9 Standard route ** 5.6 Story of O ** 5.7 for pitches 2 and 3 Old town *** 5.8 move to get started but easy above. Return to Forever ** felt very hard at 5.9 Gunklandia ** 5.8 bouldery start and quite tough in the slippery sentry box on pitch 3 Green Mountain Breakdown *** brilliant route! although you have to ignore the gigantic vibrating detached flake on which the route is based from leaving Chitlins all the way to the crux roof! 10a for the roof? Moraviana * 5.7 for pitch 2 Morning Glory * found this a big let down; not a particularly good route or line. Although, I have to admit to not being fan of contrived, semi bolted routes. Tough 5.9 as well. Otter Cliff routes always seem to be hogged by guided parties, which is a shame because it seemed to have an undeserved reputation as a top rope venue. Stuff like Child's Play and Overhanging Corner were both ** , well protected routes. Hope this is of interest. Good luck with the book. Alan.
I'm going to be here (for my second time) in a few weeks; does anyone know if any of the Precipice routes are not closed for falcons? Seems like the climber's left-side routes might be open---but left of which route? The NPS closure area just says stuff north of the boundary "75 feet south of the parking lot" for the Precipice Trail.
All South Wall routes remain open during the Peregrine Closure; the closure starts just beyond the Central Slabs. While there are a few routes scattered around that area, they are all pretty darn obscure. The closure does include the Parking Lot Wall (accessed by the Precipice Trail) - not too many people climb there anyway, but it does have some cool routes on it. In short, the closure will not slow you down.