Abu Simbel 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | MJM & RAMM, 1/11 |
| Submitted By: | MJM on Jun 4, 2011 |
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Ivan approaching C1.
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Description Start on low angled rock to gain C1. Go with sustained vertical climbing on crimpers and pockets to C3. At C3, move right to the big block undercling and go straight up on big holds with sustained climbing to and past C4. Lunge to a big, reachy, flat hold with a killer, hidden locker behind it at C5. Hang back then jet up and left to the hard to clip anchors.
Location The Piggy Bank
This is in between Tuff Shed & The Don Show.
Protection 5 clips to anchors.
Approaching C3.
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C4.
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C5 / nice on-sight.
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2011
| That would be me in the first two photos. We didn't know which route this was. Now I know. |
By Charles Cundiff
May 6, 2012
| Like a lot of the routes in this area, the bolting job is suspect. Why put the anchors out of reach and off the line? The crux of the route is clipping the anchors. |
By dancesatmoonrise
Nov 18, 2012
| One of the guys today said Bob R. has this as 10c in his new guidebook. There's two harder moves on the route that would make it hard to argue against that rating. Always subjective, of course, but they did seem harder than typical 10a's for the area. |
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