|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||John Robinson and Tom Leksan|
|Submitted By:||John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Absolutely Brilliant||Add Comment|
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From: Petaluma California
Jul 17, 2011
|Visited the leap for the first time in over 20 years. We did about 15 pitches. This was my favorite sport climb. I found it a mighty stiff 11 B.|
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 18, 2015
My partner and I led this. The climbing is superb. There is some green-ness about the route with some pebble exfoliation, but all the feet and hands seemed to be staying put.
The problem with both in the party leading is the clean up. I would highly recommend somebody TR it to clean because I lowered off the chains and the resultant sawing of the rope across dikes was not a warm fuzzy situation. The climb is well left of the anchors so you are swinging back and forth... Not fun.
Additionally, the approach from the North Face anchors to the belay anchors is described as "third class"? I would recommend a rope and a finger to 1" piece or two. This is a low 5th class approach pitch. I used double-length slings since you are going down and then up. Mind some loose looking rock before the belay ledge, go straight up and then over to it. I realize "third class" is also the old school descriptor for soloing, just realize that is what you are doing sans rope with a nice 300' or so fall line.