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Absolutely Brilliant 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Robinson and Tom Leksan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 931
Submitted By: John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010
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Description 

This is a bolted sport route that is a bit difficult to get to. It starts out as a steep feature (or face) climb then goes over a small overhang. Above the overhang make some great stemming moves to the feature on the left (this feature is part of the 3rd pitch of North Face) then up and right to the top anchors of Dragon Back. Two more opinions from others: Sure blows Powerlust away. Full on sport route with a tricky crux but not too powerfull of moves. A little pumpy through sections and not too many great rests. A must do on the leap ticklist. Just a little grainy from lack of traffic. This is a very good and almost overly-protected classic face route at the leap, the only difference is your actually doing fun moves instead of the standard mind numbing dike mantels that the leap is famous for. The route has several thin moves that lead to a roof that is fairly simple but there are a few moves after the roof that are pretty tricky. In conclusion this route deserves to be done more and was a blast to climb.


Location 

This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Dragon Back, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW, and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along.


Protection 

Bolts



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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jul 17, 2011

Visited the leap for the first time in over 20 years. We did about 15 pitches. This was my favorite sport climb. I found it a mighty stiff 11 B.