Absolutely Brilliant 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | John Robinson and Tom Leksan |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a bolted sport route that is a bit difficult to get to. It starts out as a steep feature (or face) climb then goes over a small overhang. Above the overhang make some great stemming moves to the feature on the left (this feature is part of the 3rd pitch of North Face) then up and right to the top anchors of Dragon Back. Two more opinions from others: Sure blows Powerlust away. Full on sport route with a tricky crux but not too powerfull of moves. A little pumpy through sections and not too many great rests. A must do on the leap ticklist. Just a little grainy from lack of traffic. This is a very good and almost overly-protected classic face route at the leap, the only difference is your actually doing fun moves instead of the standard mind numbing dike mantels that the leap is famous for. The route has several thin moves that lead to a roof that is fairly simple but there are a few moves after the roof that are pretty tricky. In conclusion this route deserves to be done more and was a blast to climb.
Location This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Dragon Back, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW, and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along.
Protection Bolts
| Comments on Absolutely Brilliant |
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By stevecurtis From: Petaluma California Jul 17, 2011
| Visited the leap for the first time in over 20 years. We did about 15 pitches. This was my favorite sport climb. I found it a mighty stiff 11 B. |
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