Absence of Authority
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|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
This route starts with a somewhat dirty but fun 5.9+ dihedral. After about 70' you reach a small roof where the real challenges start. Protect well before leaving the crack and launching up into devious thin face moves (crux) leading to a seam that protects only with very small gear (ie. RPs, etc). Finish by veering right on a horizontal crack that leads to the top anchors of Hairstyles and Attitudes.
Note: The start of the route has vegetation in the crack that can be climbed around. Please don't remove any more vegetation at the start of this climb.
Just left of Hairstyle and Attitudes and left around the corner from the Crack House. This is the crack line at the far right side of the wall.
Gear to 2 1/2" and small wires/gear (RPs, Lowe Balls...)
By dave bingham
Sep 21, 2015
Hmmm. We avoided this because of the plants in the crack. The authorities may be less absent after seeing these kinds of routes go in.