|Penitente - Entrance Area
This route is located at the end of the "French" Wall, right around the corner as you enter the canyon. Start by scrambling up some choss, then step out left to a reachy clip (easily stick-clipped). The crux is in the first 15' or so...traversing out left to the rounded prow, then up to the ledge. From the ledge, slab up some mossy jugs to big fat chain anchors.
I don't know why nobody climbs this...it's a good route, with good rock and fun moves. There are TONS of good 11+ routes in the canyon, and it seems like 90% of the traffic sticks to "Rocketman" and "Weenie Way"...try these routes, they're good!
Five or six bolts.
Sep 25, 2010
Climbed this today. I just had to, considering the name AND someone with the last name of Slade put it up. Getting up the blocky section to make that reachy clip out left isn't too bad when you don't think to hard. The next few moves to get clip 2 and clip 3 is tough. Once past the 3rd clip....it backs off. The second headwall is full of good stuff to pull down on. Great climb!!