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Abraxas
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A3-4
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Bob Crawford, Pat Timson, Don Harder |
Page Views: | 1,646 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Jacob Smith on Apr 16, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
This description only applies to the first two pitches, which are a decent way to reach Madsen's Ledge, if anyone has info on the rest of the climb feel free to add it in the comments. Free version beta in bold.
Pitch 1 (C2) - start up the thin crack just to the right of the large block, easy C1 until below the first roof, ascend the right-hand crack initially and then traverse left before the second roof, thinner, lower-angle cracks lead to the typical Index belay station: five bolts, 1 good, 2 probably good, 1 probably bad, and 1 definitely bad, none with chains or rap rings. Note: Belay has been updated with new SS 3/8 bolts. Pitch has three new protection bolts and goes free at 5.12 something.
Pitch 2 (A2 F) - climb the short, low angle, thin crack with many fixed copperheads, have fun slinging the chickenhead. Note: P2 is now fully bolted with the old pins and copperheads removed. Free at 5.12 something. Excellent climbing.
Pitch 3+ - god knows.
Pitch 1 (C2) - start up the thin crack just to the right of the large block, easy C1 until below the first roof, ascend the right-hand crack initially and then traverse left before the second roof, thinner, lower-angle cracks lead to the typical Index belay station: five bolts, 1 good, 2 probably good, 1 probably bad, and 1 definitely bad, none with chains or rap rings. Note: Belay has been updated with new SS 3/8 bolts. Pitch has three new protection bolts and goes free at 5.12 something.
Pitch 2 (A2 F) - climb the short, low angle, thin crack with many fixed copperheads, have fun slinging the chickenhead. Note: P2 is now fully bolted with the old pins and copperheads removed. Free at 5.12 something. Excellent climbing.
Pitch 3+ - god knows.
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