|Type: ||Trad, 12 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||E. Abram and F. Gombocz|
|Season: ||South facing and next to the road|
|Page Views: ||466|
|Submitted By: ||RKM on Sep 23, 2010|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
The approach to the Abram Arete and lower half of ...
I think the biggest and best of the south facing Ciavazes routes is the Abram ArÍte. It certainly follows the most prominent feature on the wall. Short approach, moderately good rock and quick descent. In the sun!
Can't miss it. East side of the Ciavazes wall. The steep and exposed ridge or arÍte. Descend by walking west along the Chamois Terrace trail and down climb (could rap some short spots) down and back to the road.
A few nuts, slings, etc. Mostly fixed 'crap'.
Laurel A. In the upper half of the route.
A couple of broken pitons for an anchor up high.
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R
Like he said the protection was crap but what are you gonna do. The runouts were long but on generally good rock, just stay on the grey rock.
We brought cams and used them as often as we could. Top pitches were not easy to discern but we wandered around looking for pitons and it worked.