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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 860
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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To find this route, hike west along the base of the wall on the "far side" until you are fairly close to the incredible hulk boulder. At this point, the far side wall will have a few detached and semi-detached pillars that make it a bit maze like. Hike west and slightly left, around a corner and there will be a nice recessed area with very dark rock. In this recess is sort of a pillar sandwiched between two walls. This is Abradacadbra and at the base of this route there is plenty of room to set up shop.

Abracadabra is one of the best 9s at Shelf (IMHO). It isn't as long as Lumina (on the dark side), but the rock quality is comparable (very good).

If you can get through the first 2 bolts you are in like flynn. The top section is a little bit runout, but the climbing is several grades easier at this point. This route makes a good warm-up in the summer time as it is in the shade most of the day. Enjoy.


4 bolts and anchors.

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By Michael Amato
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Many of the lower holds on this route have become quite polished since I first climbed it eight years ago making it feel a bit tougher than 5.9. Use care at the second bolt.

By Andito
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Most of the challenge of this climb lies in getting past the second bolt, with some serious ground fall potential added to the mix right as you're clipping. After that, it drops down to the 5.8 range, with a substantial runout at the end, albeit on 5.6 climbing. I'd recommend using the arÍte on the right for the first portion of the climb, then traversing left shortly after the second bolt. By the top, I was back on the right side again.

By Jeffeos
From: CordryCorner
Jan 30, 2012

Just left of this climb is a very unique 3rd class escape to the cliff's top (through the slot). Check it!