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This block sits far on the North end of the bluff at the very top of the ridge. There are random, scattered climbs along this section of the bluff. Of note, however, is an East facing (towards the river) block with a broken corner arrette on the right hand side.
This is most easily accessed by hiking up the approach trail and bearing east (right) at the base of the crag (by the Y-Crack wall). Hike along the cliff (don't get pulled up high too early - but don't go too low by the river) and then at about 2/3 the length of the bluff head up to the top ridge line. The block sits on a section of trail along the top. On the south side of the block is an easy scramble to the top with a nice view of the liberal mountain-town of Necedah to the West.
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Late Night Chalk Show 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax
Scramble up the boulders to the right of the main block and pre-clip the first bolt from there. This route is short and very intense - significantly harder than Whiskey a go go (ultra classic...), but shorter. Grading is difficult due to the length, yet the crux (moving from the second to third bolt) is both sequence specific and powerful. Flex your huge muscles really hard and follow the arrette to chains. Then go have a beer....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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