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 ADVANCED
Willow Springs South
Select Route:
Abdominizer, The T 
Above and Beyond T 
Above, Above and Beyond T 
Beyond and Above T 
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 
Fruit Loops T 
Fun And Games T 
Hawk Eye T 
Little Black Book T 
Lucky Charms T 
N'Plus Ultra T 
Nadia's Nine T 
New Hips Corner T 
Pillar Talk T 
Senior Moment T 
Sleeper T 
Taking Care of Business T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Arete T 

Above and Beyond 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA Dustin and Dan, the blue-eyed guys from Boulder City, C. Long--08/29/2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: cassondra on Feb 24, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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John climbing Above and Beyond. Photo by Gigi.

Description 

Tip toe right of the crack on a thin rail, grab the pockets and SMEAR! Thus begins the enjoyable movement that is Above and Beyond. Follow the pockets left and right of the crack, then reach way out right to swing into the large hueco. Continue up and slightly left through the thin plates, then easily to the top.

Same anchor spot as Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.

Fun, technical climbing on some very nice varnish makes this beautiful route a fine bonus after climbing Pillar Talk below it.

Location 

Located above Pillar Talk, next to Chocolate Tranquility Fountain.
Descent is the same as for CTF

Protection 

Single rack to #3 Camalot (Yes, the #3 goes in passive mode in a hole by the big hueco)
nuts
trad anchor


Photos of Above and Beyond Slideshow Add Photo
Above and Beyond 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Above and Beyond 5.9
Above and Beyond 5.9 on the Supra Ultra Wall
Above and Beyond 5.9 on the Supra Ultra Wall
Closer view. Positive features, but not obvious un...
Closer view. Positive features, but not obvious un...

Comments on Above and Beyond Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stone Nude
Feb 25, 2014

A really fine route. Been a long time since I've been on it, but I would say it's easily four stars or better.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 20, 2014

This is a really nice route.
By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

great advice on the open #2 in the hole. Coming from the gunks, that was a new technique that i used elsewhere in RR. cool moves all through although unfortunately too short. staying left of the main line is harder and more interesting but doesn't protect real well so consider a TR run after your lead
By Howard.
From: Irvine, CA
Sep 3, 2014

The #3 seems initially okay to go passive in the hueco, but careful inspection reveals it's a tad manky.