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Above and Beyond 
Run Don't Walk 
Think Fast Mr. Moto 
Wanderlust 

Above and Beyond 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe and Judy Perez, Al Hospers, July 2011
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: twellman on Aug 27, 2012
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Description 

This is a fun direct line up the wanderlust wall, with each pitch having a nice face climbing crux.

Pitch 1 (5.9+): Start about 20 feet left of Wanderlust, and climb the right facing corner (with gear) on the right side of the small buttress that Run Don't Walk starts on. Head for the two bolts on the headwall, clip em, and after the bulge head past one more bolt to the Wanderlust belay.

Pitch 2 (5.9): Head straight up past 6 bolts to another 2-bolt belay below the steeper section of wall on the right.

Pitch 3 (5.9+): Head out right from the belay to the obvious bolts on the steep wall. Some fun tricky moves will get you past the first 3 bolts, then follow easier terrain straight up to the 2+1 bolt anchor at the top below a steep wall.

Rap thrice with a 60m to get down.


Location 

About 20 feet left of Wanderlust (which has a big blue paint streak at its start), at a right facing corner.


Protection 

Draws, and maybe 1-3" cams for the initial corner. The second and third pitches don't need gear.



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By twellman
Aug 27, 2012

The nut on the second bolt of pitch 3 was loose when I climbed this the other day. I hand-tightened it, but if someone has the foresight to bring a wrench, it could use a good torqueing!

A very fun outing, with well-proctected cruxes, nice belays, and good exposure and views.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 29, 2013

You know, "thrice" just isn't used enough these days. Bravo for expanding the vernacular!