|The Cake Walk Area
This is a fun direct line up the wanderlust wall, with each pitch having a nice face climbing crux.
Pitch 1 (5.9+): Start about 20 feet left of Wanderlust, and climb the right facing corner (with gear) on the right side of the small buttress that Run Don't Walk starts on. Head for the two bolts on the headwall, clip em, and after the bulge head past one more bolt to the Wanderlust belay.
Pitch 2 (5.9): Head straight up past 6 bolts to another 2-bolt belay below the steeper section of wall on the right.
Pitch 3 (5.9+): Head out right from the belay to the obvious bolts on the steep wall. Some fun tricky moves will get you past the first 3 bolts, then follow easier terrain straight up to the 2+1 bolt anchor at the top below a steep wall.
Rap thrice with a 60m to get down.
About 20 feet left of Wanderlust (which has a big blue paint streak at its start), at a right facing corner.
Draws, and maybe 1-3" cams for the initial corner. The second and third pitches don't need gear.
Aug 27, 2012
The nut on the second bolt of pitch 3 was loose when I climbed this the other day. I hand-tightened it, but if someone has the foresight to bring a wrench, it could use a good torqueing!
A very fun outing, with well-proctected cruxes, nice belays, and good exposure and views.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Mar 29, 2013
You know, "thrice" just isn't used enough these days. Bravo for expanding the vernacular!
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: North Berwick, ME
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a