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T-Wall East
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Abortion Contortion 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Rob Robinson
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: yevquest on Feb 1, 2009
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Description 

A pretty good route marred by a bit of pebbly rock and an annoyingly easy to miss crux throw.

Reasonable climbing past 2 bolts leads to a roof and the aforementioned pebbly rock. Pull this heading left using several options, grovel over another roof, and catch a sneaky rest. Now setup for the mail slot dyno. Feet out left? Straight below? Use the pocket? Lots of options and they all seem hard. Stick the crux and pull another mini-roof that's feels much harder than it should on redpoint. Romp to the top on jugs.


Location 

In between Hands Across America (to the left) and Twistin' in the Wind (to the right).


Protection 

Bolts



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By Blake Cash
Dec 15, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Much better route than the 2 stars that it's given here. Great mid 5.12 climbing to a great 5 move crux on amazing rock. The pebbly rock is for only 2 moves or so. Some of the coolest movement of all the t-wall sport routes...as it isn't the simple tiered roof tugging that the rest have.