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 ADVANCED
Alberton Rest Stop
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Abe's a Bitch S 
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Abe's a Bitch 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Philip Goan lll
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Abe Schmidt on Nov 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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JP going for the big move.

Description 

This route is the most right route on the main wall. It starts out just past the corner. The move past the first bolt is a pretty hard one, with a big reach. The last bolt is sketchy, becasue if you miss and fall you will hit a ledge before the rope catches you, and you will probably break yourself.

Location 

far right on the main wall.

Protection 

Bolted the whole way. Not run out. Total of five bolts plus top loops.


Photos of Abe's a Bitch Slideshow Add Photo
JP pushing through.
JP pushing through.
First Big Move.
First Big Move.

Comments on Abe's a Bitch Add Comment
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By JP3
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 29, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

This is a solid climb. The first bolt should be clipped before attempting and until you reach the second bolt, you should have a good spotter (nasty sharp rocks below). After that, its a fun, slightly cryptic climb. The last move is a difficult one hand / no solid foot clip - made much worse by being pumped out.

Altogether a fun climb.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Mar 2, 2009

I'm not sure that this climb warrants an R rating...it seemed very well protected to me and the first bolt is safely reached with attentive belay.
By Dan Bachen
Mar 8, 2010

Allright climb, well protected, broke a foot at last bolt years ago but overall worth a lead
By ConorD
From: Monf***ingtana
Sep 5, 2011

This is a great climb to do at Alberton, the only in the moderate rating I think. Well bolted and not "R" IMO, unless one of those manky homemade aluminum things blew, then i would call it R. I might have some time to change those hangers out, otherwise if anyone is interested in some hardware updating this would be a good place to do it.
By ktmt
From: Missoula, MT
Jul 2, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Super funky until you sort it out. Definitely introduces you to the nature of the climbing on the wall. No way 10a/b. 5.10d is the consensus I've always heard.