Abbot Arete 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Lawrence Stuemke, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | ClimbandMine on Jun 2, 2002 |
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Steve Marr working up Abbot's Arete
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Description This route is right of Wes Bound on the arete just uphill from Table Wine and the entrance to the Inner Sanctum. Typical Outer Gates slab/face climbing on crystals, with a steeper 2-3 bolt crux. Escape left to the anchors of Wes Bound after 9 bolts and bring up your second to rap with one rope, or continue to the routes own anchors and a 2-rope rappel.
Protection 11 bolts plus anchors.
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| Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
| Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
| Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
| Unknown climber on the Abbot Arete, Sat 18 Aug, 07...
| BETA PHOTO: Photo of Abbot's Arrete showing most of the route.
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By Steve Marr From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 5, 2002
| This route is every bit as good as No Mystery Here, if not better. The bolts were thoughtfully placed (but not always comfortably placed). The crux starts around the 6th or 7th bolt where the route steepens. There is a very positive right-facing flake with bomber holds. Once over the flake there are a couple options like Dave pointed out. The first is to clip into Wes Bound's anchors and then rap. The second is to continue straight up past two more bolts to Abbot's anchors. There is a long run out between the 9th and 10th bolts with pretty straight forward climbing. You could probably clip the right bolt on the Wes Bound anchor with a long sling if you wanted. Stellar route with fantastic views. |
By Mike Epke From: Denver, CO Jun 28, 2003
| You can actually rap from this route with two one rope rappels by going to the rap station for Southern Hospitality. Fun route that was definitely stiffer climbing than the two 5.7s down the hill. Enjoy this excellent, long climb. |
By joell From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 4, 2004
| You can also rap from the Abbot Arete anchors with a single 60 meter rope if you go down to the large flake that Southern Hospitality begins from. If you choose to use the Wes Bound anchors, you can actually be lowered on belay if you descend into the Inner Sanctum along Wes Bound. A 60 meter rope will reach from the base of Abbott Arete to the Wes Bound anchors and down to the base of Wes Bound with plenty to spare. |
By Blitzo Sep 12, 2006
| A really fun 5.7. |
By Rick Thompson From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO Aug 3, 2009
| FA: Lawrence Stuemke, 1995 Lowering from the anchors at the top of Wes Bound is definitely the preferred method as the climbing from there to the top is uneventful and of lower quality. |
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