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Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c

   
Type: Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: D.Mabe, K.Melnick, L.Arevalo FFA: M.Patz 12/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,291
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Nov 20, 2005
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Abbienormal at the end of the day

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Description 

Inspired as a memorial for Kim's dog, Abbie, who lived on this earth with her for 15 years.

Abbienormal is the right-facing dihedral located about 20 feet to the right of Pinky Groovy. Start from a ramp and a splitter handcrack in the left wall of the dihedral that joins the steep and overhanging tips lieback (crux!). The arete will help the moves pulling around the overhanging traverse right. Rest at the hand jam and arete stem, and make more "abnormal" moves (second crux!) until you reach good fingers (orange TCUs) for the rest of the way. Before the anchors is one more cruxy move changing corners, and a final horizontal crack jug to clip them.

This route was established on C1 aid and toprope. This sustained route is on par with the hardest routes at Cat Wall.


Protection 

Many purple TCUs, a few blue TCUs, several orange TCUs, a couple #.75 Camalots, and a few #1 and #2 Camalots.



Photos of Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Patz on Redneck Rock Warrior
Mike Patz on Redneck Rock Warrior
the start of the tips section.  purple tcu! yucko!
the start of the tips section. purple tcu! yucko!
Louis, splitter hands, approaching the tips lieback
Louis, splitter hands, approaching the tips liebac...
Louis changing corners before the anchors
Louis changing corners before the anchors
there ain't sh*t to stem on...
there ain't sh*t to stem on...
workin the arete to start the overhanging traverse move.
workin the arete to start the overhanging traverse...
Comments on Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 28, 2005

Today I began my training for the FFA of Abbienormal. I woke up at 3 am and ran 26.3 miles in the buff.At 6 am I had a teaspoon of flax seed oil for breakfast.6:01 I began my campusing session by beginning with a 4 minute hang on the bottom then up to the 7th which I did 300 pull ups on then campused back to the bottom to hang again for another 4 minutes and repeated 20 times.By 10 I meditated for 3 hours.Now I had another teaspoon of flax seed oil for lunch and am preparing to run backwards for 13 miles in the buff.For dinner I will have 2 teaspoons of flax seed oil and then end the night by doing 1200 front levers on my front porch in the buff.I think by the spring I will have what it takes to levitate up the route. I am hoping to weigh 92 pounds and have grown 10 inches.

By clayhoon
Jan 26, 2006

Your going about the training all wrong! You need to pick a fine satchule of humbolts finest, and grab a six pack of tall boys.. Then you will send all your hardest projects with ease!!!

By misterclimberman
Mar 1, 2006

first ascent yet?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2006

not that i've heard.
go get it!

By misterclimberman
Apr 17, 2006

so is it 13 or 12+? the plack says 12+. did somebody make a plack and a rating without first redpointing?

By Louis Arevalo
Apr 17, 2006

12+ is a guess. Neither of us could link the short tips lieback and the rest of the route would go at 12 from the arete buisness. Although purple tcu's pro this section there are some sweeter spots for your digits. Small fingered climbers should have a look since this bit is only about 7' giving way to bigger slots for your check to the arete. Did you get on the route? What do you think it goes at?

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 20, 2006

The three of us agreed that its piss hard, though. harder than 5.11 but probably easier than 5.13+. My post of the route explained that i set the anchors after aiding it, then we played around on TR. i figured that once the crack gets a few ascents, the tips will naturally open up a bit. First go of it, i could not even get into the cuticles. just a few ascents will wear the inside of a tips crack, even by a few millimeters, which makes a big difference; whereas a few millimeters in a hand crack goes unnoticed until after a thousand or so ascents (ref Incredible Hand Crack...). Also, after a few falls or hang dogs on small TCUs, it will open up some of the crack, trust me. this is the reasoning for the grade discrepancy. I would put money on that whoever sends it first will be someone with tiny fingers, like Gnade or Rodden. which means the tentative 13 rating will probably be downgraded. but maybe not, since grades there are dependent on lead, placing gear.

in your Bloom guide, pg 112, Abbienormal is the shaded RF corner left of #53 (similar pic on pg 111).

By Mike dandy Patz
Dec 9, 2006

I would like to re-name this route "Red Neck Rock Warrior". I did it on 12/7/06 and I think it was the FFA. I didn't know it was a memorial for Kim's dog or else I may have thought twice, but I did make a new plaque after I did it. I don't mean to disrespect Abbie or anything -I'm sure she was a great dog. I would like to name this route after Alf Randell who just taught me a lot about red neck qualities.

Anyhow- it's a good hard route and I greatly appreciate that Darren and Kim recognized it and put in the anchors.

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Nov 15, 2011

Iíve been working this thing for a couple days and I think I can say with confidence that the climbing goes at solid 5.13. Its extremely difficult to smear on the white sandstone and Iím pretty sure stemming the corner is the only possible way to get through the crux. I also think the smears have gotten gradually worse since I first started working it.