Abbey Normal 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Jim Shimberg 1992 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Mar 13, 2007 |
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Partial closure for falcon nesting 2013 MORE INFO >>>
Though falcons are not nesting on this cliff, it's close proximity to Summit Crag where the birds are now nesting means parts of the cliff will be closed to climbing from roughly April through July.
please read and follow signs in the area to know which climbs should be avoided.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Another nice technical route steeper than it looked from the ground and a bit pumpy.
A weird but fun crux half way up on underclings and weird feet. Very interesting moves and fun once you figure it out.
Another slabby part at the top made me think for a second before gaining the anchor.
Recommended if you like techy stuff.
Location Just left of Cow Patty (5.10a).
Protection It seems this route has had bolts added. I counted 8, but the guide says 5 with the option of a TCU between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.I didn't need gear and found it well protected.
By S. Neoh
Aug 11, 2010
| Yes, it had only 4 or 5 bolts when I did it A WHILE BACK. Didn't think any of the runout was particularly bad.
Not nearly as nice as its newer neighbor, Cow Patty, so it gets 1.5 stars from me. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 11, 2010
| My friend Jakob and I added a second pitch or extention to this route... We call it Bridge to Nowhere it goes at 5.9 or 9+ very fun climbing that affords a great view... when you link it, its 14 bolts to anchor and you can lower with a 70m rope or do 2 raps with a 60m...
www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/yellow_knife_>>> |
By S. Neoh
Aug 11, 2010
| Fantastic, Lee. Thanks.
In the Fall, we will haul our 70m rope up there and do Abbey Normal to Bridge in one push. And get on Cow Patty and Yellow Knife, the route.
I've only been to YK Buttress twice, had a good time both times. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 12, 2010
| cool, let me know what you think :)
and do make sure you knot the end of your 70m cause im pretty possitive that it will get you down but ive only been on it with a 60m... |
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