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 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABBA 
BB Brain 
BB Gun 
BB King 
Bed And Breakfast 
Black And Blue 
Butt Over Buttress 
Red Ryder 
Unsorted Routes:

ABBA 

5.8 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Deb Thompson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Deb does some micro-exploring.

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Description 

This is an obvious line to the right of Bed and Breakfast that gains a hanging, soft, right-facing dihedral with some good holds and nice liebacks at times. It is a bit furry still, since it was cleaned with a nut tool and barehands.

Start about 5 feet to the right of Bed and Breakfast. There is a funky move low that might be tricky to do as a lead, since the 1st piece of gear is probably 15-18 feet up. There is another interesting move about mid-route. About 40 feet up, angle left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.

The climbing seems a bit better than Bed And Breakfast.


Location 

This ascends the hanging, right-facing dihedral right of Bed and Breakfast.


Protection 

A TR with directional(s) of a red Alien and orange Alien makes it work. For a lead, this would have limited options and would be likely R rated.

On lead, you can get a #0 TCU, yellow Alien (though, a hybrid green-yellow might be better), green Alien, small cam, red Alien, #1 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, and a #0.75 Camalot. Note, the gear is iffy until the small cam.