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 ADVANCED
Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABBA T,TR 
BB Brain S 
BB Gun S 
BB King S 
Bed And Breakfast T 
Black And Blue S 
Butt Over Buttress TR 
Project S 
Red Ryder 
Unsorted Routes:

ABBA 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Deb does some micro-exploring.

Description 

This is an obvious line to the right of Bed and Breakfast that gains a hanging, soft, right-facing dihedral with some good holds and nice liebacks at times. It is a bit furry still, since it was cleaned with a nut tool and bare hands.

Start about 5 feet to the right of Bed and Breakfast. There is a funky move low that might be tricky to do as a lead, since the 1st piece of gear is probably 15-18 feet up. There is another interesting move about mid-route. About 40 feet up, angle left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.

The climbing seems a bit better than Bed And Breakfast.

Location 

This ascends the hanging, right-facing dihedral right of Bed and Breakfast.

Protection 

A TR with directional(s) of a red Alien and orange Alien makes it work. For a lead, this would have limited options and would be likely R rated.

On lead, you can get a #0 TCU, yellow Alien (though, a hybrid green-yellow might be better), green Alien, small cam, red Alien, #1 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, and a #0.75 Camalot. Note, the gear is iffy until the small cam.


Photos of ABBA Slideshow Add Photo
Mark cruising the dirty start.
Mark cruising the dirty start.

Comments on ABBA Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many.