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Mark cruising the dirty start.
This is an obvious line to the right of Bed and Breakfast
that gains a hanging, soft, right-facing dihedral with some good holds and nice liebacks at times. It is a bit furry still, since it was cleaned with a nut tool and bare hands.
Start about 5 feet to the right of Bed and Breakfast
. There is a funky move low that might be tricky to do as a lead, since the 1st piece of gear is probably 15-18 feet up. There is another interesting move about mid-route. About 40 feet up, angle left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast
The climbing seems a bit better than Bed And Breakfast
A TR with directional(s) of a red Alien and orange Alien makes it work. For a lead, this would have limited options and would be likely R rated.
On lead, you can get a #0 TCU, yellow Alien (though, a hybrid green-yellow might be better), green Alien, small cam, red Alien, #1 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, and a #0.75 Camalot. Note, the gear is iffy until the small cam.
Deb does some micro-exploring.
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many.