Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T,S 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Abandonment 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 1998.
Page Views: 2,944
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the third route from the left. Climb up and right past overlaps between two black streaks. After the fourth bolt, continue straight up (placing a yellow Alien for pro) to a higher anchor, or angle left along a quartz dike to a lower anchor shared with the routes on the left.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with the route to the left). The 5.8 leader will probably want to attempt to place gear after the bolts end at half-height (small nuts or yellow Alien).


Comments on Abandonment Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 11, 2014
By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001

Two things I noticed about this route. 1. It would easily go with gear for the competent 5.8 leader, 2. At least one very suspicious pocket on the route. Does anyone know about this pocket? Ive climbed in the canyon for 7 years and can count on one hand the number of perfect pockets I've seen and two of them were within 15 minutes at the Riviera.

Otherwise a fun route that will mind bend anyone not used to runouts.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 15, 2001

This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock.
By PATRICK THOMPSON
Mar 26, 2002

I can guarantee that there are no manufactered pockets on this route or at the Riviera at all.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 13, 2003

Microcams will also work well for the section above the bolts.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2003

This route is fun but rather short. I felt it was a bit harder than Topless Etiquette. The four bolts are probably only 10 feet apart (total), then there is a runout of 30' or so to the anchors. The top part is easier, but you would probably hit the ground if you slipped. For peace of mind I'd recommend a few Aliens (I used a yellow Alien).
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2008

I wouldn't recommend running the top out. There is a thin move near the anchors and a slip would be fatal.
By DamageVic
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Jul 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this yesterday- led it clean w/ the beta from this site. Placed a green Alien above the 4th bolt & a black Alien in the flake just a little ways from the anchor (above Lease Agreement/NLOL). Had a great time, fun route!
By JJNS
May 4, 2010

I cleaned your draws off these anchors yesterday. If you left them there deliberately, I'm sorry I removed them. If you forgot them I will do my best to get them back to you. Pm me with a description of the draws, and I will make sure you get them back.

thanks

Jason
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2010

Maybe they were "Abandoned".
By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Went up this thinking it was pure sport...it's not. First 4 bolts are pretty low on the route and close together then after that it is runout for about 40ft to the anchors. Suprisingly a fun route for a 5.8 but if your not used to runouts with certain deckouts if you slip near the top then don't do this...or place gear.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 21, 2013

The hanger and nut are missing from the first bolt. It looks like a 10mm SS wedge bolt (takes a 10x1.5 SS nut). I would replace it, but I am flying back to California tomorrow.

Until the hanger gets replaced, you can clip the first bolt on the route to the left.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Aug 22, 2013

Back in Colorado two months later. Dale Haas and I put a new hanger on the first bolt and upgraded the anchor bolts with Fixe SS double ring hangers.
By Rick Vermeil
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely bring gear for the second half of this. A set of small to medium nuts will work, but TCUs or Aliens would be easier to place. I only used one small nut but would have placed another if I could of found another slot. However, I saw a few good TCU placements in the #2-4 range. The only cam I racked was a BD #0.75, and it did not fit in anything. There is ground fall potential with about 15ft of climbing left to the anchor. The climbing is easy as mentioned on other comments, but I would of been stressing it without gear. I thought the route was fun with sporty layback moves on nice flakes at the bottom four bolts (5.8), then a bit more slabby at the top (5.5-7). There is quartz in the granite for the first 20 feet which makes it a lot more slippery than the rest of the crag. No stars in D'Antonio's book, but pay no attention to that. It is definitely worth climbing!
By George Bracksieck
Mar 11, 2014

Having led Au Natural and Abandonment recently, I think the former is a whole number grade harder than the latter.