Abandonment 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Pat and Azenda Thompson, 1998. |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Description Third route from the left. Climb up and right past overlaps between two black streaks. After the fourth bolt, continue straight up (placing a yellow Alien for pro) to a higher anchor, or angle left along a quartz dike to a lower anchor shared with the routes on the left.
Protection 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with the route to the left). The 5.8 leader will probably want to attempt to place gear after the bolts end at half-height (small nuts or yellow Alien).
By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001
| Two things I noticed about this route. 1. It would easily go with gear for the competent 5.8 leader, 2. At least one very suspicious pocket on the route. Does anyone know about this pocket? Ive climbed in the canyon for 7 years and can count on one hand the number of perfect pockets I've seen and two of them were within 15 minutes at the Riviera.
Otherwise a fun route that will mind bend anyone not used to runouts. |
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 15, 2001
| This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock. |
By PATRICK THOMPSON
Mar 26, 2002
| I can guarantee that there are no manufactered pockets on this route or at the Riviera at all. |
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 13, 2003
| Microcams will also work well for the section above the bolts. |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2003
| This route is fun but rather short. I felt it was a bit harder than Topless Etiquette. The four bolts are probably only 10 feet apart (total), then there is a runout of 30' or so to the anchors. The top part is easier, but you would probably hit the ground if you slipped. For peace of mind I'd recommend a few Aliens (I used a yellow Alien). |
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2008
| I wouldn't recommend running the top out. There is a thin move near the anchors and a slip would be fatal. |
By DamageVic
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Jul 8, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Did this yesterday- led it clean w/ the beta from this site. Placed a green Alien above the 4th bolt & a black Alien in the flake just a little ways from the anchor (above Lease Agreement/NLOL). Had a great time, fun route! |
By JasonJNSmith
From: Denver
May 4, 2010
| I cleaned your draws off these anchors yesterday. If you left them there deliberately, I'm sorry I removed them. If you forgot them I will do my best to get them back to you. Pm me with a description of the draws, and I will make sure you get them back.
thanks
Jason |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2010
| Maybe they were "Abandoned". |
By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.8- PG13
| Went up this thinking it was pure sport...it's not. First 4 bolts are pretty low on the route and close together then after that it is runout for about 40ft to the anchors. Suprisingly a fun route for a 5.8 but if your not used to runouts with certain deckouts if you slip near the top then don't do this...or place gear. |
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