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 ADVANCED
Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Abandonement Issues 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JSt, EFR,Robert Mcleod,'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: JSt, on Candy Man. The big shadowed corner past h...

Description 

A large right facing dihedral that is the most obvious feature on the wall. It would get 3 stars if the rock at the bottom bolted part of the corner (2nd) pitch was a bit less grainy. Pitch 1) 5.8 Climb face to nice belay ledge right of corner. 2) 5.11 Move left into corner then up dihedral past 4 or 5 bolts then start plugging gear.


Location 

Start 20 feet left of black streak where a block leans against the wall with a bolt.


Protection 

Bolts, standard rack to yellow camalots. 1/4 inch stopper is bombproof at the crux



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By Jimbo
Dec 6, 2008

Several people have climbed this line and the consenus rating is 5.11a. Perhaps a bit harder if your shorter.