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Abacab 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 981
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Feb 17, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: This is Abacab.
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Description 

A good top rope problem that could be lead. Gear placements exist until the balancy transition onto the easy face portion in the second half of the climb. Definitely wouldn't want to fall from the top on lead, but the upper portion is a cake walk.


Location 

Far left of Standard Deviation Wall look for the sharp zig zag flakes


Protection 

Top rope bolt anchors exist. Small gear placements exist in the first 15ft



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By yosenhuttle
Mar 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Not too bad of a lead. The ramp in the middle of the route was pretty wide and an easy walk up. Pro was good both before and after the ramp.

By MAR
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Save something in the 1-inch size for after the run-out section on the ramp. If you get up there and have nothing in that size (or alternatively, really huge ~#6 camalot) the climb becomes extremely run out and dangerous. That said, with saving a 1 inch piece for after the ramp, the run out parts are easy, and fairly safe. A fun climb.

By Josh Cameron
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

A funish TR but a stoopid lead. Definite ground fall potential for such a mediocre climb. Some loose blocks at start.