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Limbo Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abacab TR 
Apostrophe T,TR 
Aqualunge S 
As the Crow Flies S 
Baby Dihedral T 
Back to Basics T 
Batso's Resurrection TR 
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 
Cake Walk T 
Craig's Chimney TR 
Craig's Crack T 
Crow Boulder S,TR 
Deviate Behavior S 
Digitalis TR 
Double Trouble S 
Escape From The Underworld S 
Facial Tissue TR 
History Book T 
Indecision TR 
Kathy's Memorial T 
Mighty Monger S 
Monkey Dance S 
Rift, The T 
Standard Deviation S 
Top of the Pops.  T 
Tower, The S 
Turkey Chute T 
Vawter's Dihedral T 
Volume I TR 
Zig Zag TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,380
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Feb 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: This is Abacab.

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A good top rope problem that could be lead. Gear placements exist until the balancy transition onto the easy face portion in the second half of the climb. Definitely wouldn't want to fall from the top on lead, but the upper portion is a cake walk.


Far left of Standard Deviation Wall look for the sharp zig zag flakes


Top rope bolt anchors exist. Small gear placements exist in the first 15ft

Photos of Abacab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just starting Abacab (5.7) which is the farthest l...
Just starting Abacab (5.7) which is the farthest l...

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By ntlhui
Feb 23, 2016

Bolts at the top of Abacab are currently spinners. Recommend backing up any anchor by slinging the rocks immediately behind the hangers.
By yosenhuttle
Mar 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not too bad of a lead. The ramp in the middle of the route was pretty wide and an easy walk up. Pro was good both before and after the ramp.
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Save something in the 1-inch size for after the run-out section on the ramp. If you get up there and have nothing in that size (or alternatively, really huge ~#6 camalot) the climb becomes extremely run out and dangerous. That said, with saving a 1 inch piece for after the ramp, the run out parts are easy, and fairly safe. A fun climb.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

A funish TR but a stoopid lead. Definite ground fall potential for such a mediocre climb. Some loose blocks at start.

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