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AAC craggin classic 2016 Devil's Lake

Original Post
chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036

Sorry, I tried to split Woodchuck's thread off from the 2015 thread and it disappeared. Blah.

AAC craggin classic 2016

Apologies Woodchuck. Here we go again.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Thanks...glad to see it go up 'officially' so to get the proper attention for those unaware of it being out there. I'll see if I can go delete my other post.

Joe Z. · · Prairie du Sac, WI · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 120

Are the deals that you get from being part of AAC pretty good? Anything like pro-deals?

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
Joe Z. wrote:Are the deals that you get from being part of AAC pretty good? Anything like pro-deals?
Yes.

And on top of that, you get to fund an organization that furthers the interests of the climbing community as a whole.
e-m-p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 25

Hope those fliers haven't gone to the printers -- there's a typo on there.

Chicago is rated 5.8

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Jesus. That route is sandbagged enough!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
e-m-p wrote:Hope those fliers haven't gone to the printers -- there's a typo on there. Chicago is rated 5.8
new guide book, new rating...isnt' that how it works? Author or input from climbers to change route ratings still goes on I guess. Wonder if it is a typo, or a change.
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Looks like "5.9 R" is the consensus on MP:

Chicago

Also, it was called "F9" originally under the old NCCS system:


Photo linked from this Supertopo Forum

Which, of course, makes it 5.9. So I guess you could say it's being revised to its proper and original grade.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, and that's very much a "Devil's Lake 5.9." The crux is heady and pumpy, and pretty much unprotected once you get to that weird triangular (?) niche. Not that I've led it, but it's plenty tough on TR.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

A .75 X4 is a great fit in that triangle!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, but it's your last piece before toping out, what...20' later?

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

I remember a small wire a few feet after the crux, and a bit more gear between that and the top. Maybe a bit run out, but easier climbing.

Mike Robinson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 251

Only time i've ever really needed to place my pink tricam is on chicago. otherwise no one cares about your tricams ;) there is plenty of gear above the niche, pretty PG once you pull the crux imho.

i wish i was gonna be around for this!

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

It's only a 14 hr drive Mike...

Zach M · · Summersville, WV · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0
James M Schroeder wrote: Yes. And on top of that, you get to fund an organization that furthers the interests of the climbing community as a whole.
I'd take a close look at the AAC's background. The AAC's goal is to build a climbing community, they do not seem to engage in political advocacy, lobbying, or protecting resources. That's the Access Fund.

(at least, that's what it looked like to me when I looked into both group's annual statements)
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
Zach M wrote: I'd take a close look at the AAC's background. The AAC's goal is to build a climbing community, they do not seem to engage in political advocacy, lobbying, or protecting resources. That's the Access Fund. (at least, that's what it looked like to me when I looked into both group's annual statements)
I think there are a lot of folks who would beg to differ. The AAC does a large amount of all three of those.

Did you know that the AAC's annual dinner was held in Washington D.C. this year, and that Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell and National Park Service Director Jon Jarvis were in attendance?

What about the AAC's grant programs? Which include everything from Live Your Dream Grants for everyday climbers to a variety of conservation and research grants.

The AAC is a great organization, and works closely with the AF. In fact, the AF spun-off from the AAC in 1991.

Anyway, just some facts.
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
jon jugenheimer wrote:It's only a 14 hr drive Mike...
#Truth
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
James M Schroeder wrote: I think there are a lot of folks who would beg to differ. The AAC does a large amount of all three of those. Did you know that the AAC's annual dinner was held in Washington D.C. this year, and that Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell and National Park Service Director Jon Jarvis were in attendance? What about the AAC's grant programs? Which include everything from Live Your Dream Grants for everyday climbers to a variety of conservation and research grants. The AAC is a great organization, and works closely with the AF. In fact, the AF spun-off from the AAC in 1991. Anyway, just some facts.
Yes, and I'm very glad that the Access Fund spun off to be available for us to reach out to for access issues only. I can't afford an AAC membership, but I can donate and help out where needed to AF events and issues. Glad that so many agencies do work together for the overall good of climbers, outdoors, environment, etc. and not get jammed up as some radical outreach group like often would happen to 'GreenPeace' back in their early days.
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
Woodchuck ATC wrote:...I can't afford an AAC membership...
You can probably make these discounts cover the $85 (only $70 if you signup for auto-renew) membership fee, especially if you buy much gear, or food, in any given year. Not to mention all the other great benefits. And again, all of that aside, you're still supporting all of the other great things the AAC does for the community.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
James M Schroeder wrote: You can probably make these discounts cover the $85 (only $70 if you signup for auto-renew) membership fee, especially if you buy much gear, or food, in any given year. Not to mention all the other great benefits. And again, all of that aside, you're still supporting all of the other great things the AAC does for the community.
Would have worked for me 20 years ago. Now too old, fixed income, laid off from part time jobs, now in surgical recovery,,so my budget doesn't allow for much at all. I'm not getting new gear or taking big travel trips anymore in my life. The benefits are great, I just cant' take advantage of them in the least.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

Bump for Angie Payne attending the Classic and teaching a clinic!

Now my only goal for this fall is to get a selfie with her at this event!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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