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Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno ArĂȘte S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Lost in Tradslation T 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Outta This World T 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2003
Page Views: 2,328
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 21, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Carlton (aka Beer Dog) asks, "Are you wearing...


Climb the clean arete just left of Boy's World. Sustained delicate face and slab climbing. Fun moves, airy position. A great addition to this area!


8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The climb is about 60' long.

Photos of AAArete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On lead.
On lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: AAArete.  Sustained delicate face climbing all the...
BETA PHOTO: AAArete. Sustained delicate face climbing all the...
Rock Climbing Photo: AAArete and Boy's World.  Photo by Vaino Kodas; us...
BETA PHOTO: AAArete and Boy's World. Photo by Vaino Kodas; us...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon tip-toeing up the arete.
Peter Dillon tip-toeing up the arete.

Comments on AAArete Add Comment
Show which comments
By ClimbandMine
Mar 6, 2005

This is just weird. It's hard to tell which side of the arete you are supposed to climb. The bolts are on the left, but holds seem to pull you right, almost out of reach at one point.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 1, 2005

Why not just climb the corner a foot and a half to the right?
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jun 14, 2006

This is a decent climb and a good warmup. I recommend staying along the bolt line (on the left of the arete). Moving to the right is probably a bit easier but not really the intent of the route.
By michalm
Jun 29, 2016

This route has bolts literally every two feet! You really don't need that many bolts to protect the moves on this route. Grid-bolting is an eyesore and takes away from the enjoyment of climbing a route. Do you really want to clip a bolt every move? Furthermore, who cares what the intent of the route is if the first ascensionist didn't really consider the most logical (i.e. easiest) way to climb a route by following its natural features and instead sprayed bolts on rapppel without really figuring out how the route climbs. Forcing lines and overbolting are what makes most bolted moderates in Boulder Canyon heaping piles of shit, thanks to the fine work of Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio. Finally, the bolts on this route nearly encroach upon the gear route in the corner to the right. Some routes are better left as toprope problems.

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