Back in the early 90's when I was learning to climb we went to Allamuchy, which at the time we called Buzzard Mountain. There were some old timers around then and I think the first ascent of this route was achieved by a climber named Lucio, who at the time was fading from the scene. Eventually I lead the route and most others here and then moved away. I still miss the place though- Does any one ever do the traverse left to right on the main wall?
I've done a lot of crawling up that Main Face at Allamuchy and have TR'd variations of AYITL. Truthfully, I think of the line in the photos as being closer to "Foreign Invasion" as the Nick guide describes it, with a grade of 5.9. Any background or further info. you can provide on the specific variations to AYITL would be much appreciated. I've often considered leading it, but the integrity of that first bolt is uncertain. It has to be quite old?
I think you are correct- Looking at it I remember a 5.9 up the center of the face. I never knew the name of the route though. AYITL is to the right and I remember the bolt even 20 years ago was old. AYITL I believe is about 5.10- with a harder variation that is somewhat contrived. There is also an easier corner to the right and then a face right of that protected with small nuts, RP's etc. Then a harder 5.10 right of that. I may be wrong about all of this because I have not been there in about 20 years.
When the bolts were still there on AYITL we used to do a variation by climbing to the first bolt of Foreign Invasion then moving up and right to a nice jug. You then clipped the 2nd bolt of AYITL and finished on that line Probably only 10a but easier than the normal crux of AYITL and not as scary as the run to the letterbox from the bolt on Foreign Invasion. I do believe Lucho put up most of the variations and AYITL.
The hard main face was led ground up by Jeff Gruenberg in the early 1980s. after being "found"by John Anderson who told me about rock in Byram... While the history of 1st ascents in New Jersey are being discussed it is amazing which names are missing. The group of us who cleaned and climbed here in the 1970s. Gruenberg climbed instead of eating, morphing into skelator, and digging out 5.13 traverses in the dust. We needed to find him fresh rock to eat, Climbing with him, myself, Dana Hauser, Mike Freeman, Jack Meleski, the Schlauch brothers, Eric and Mike, The Kondraki brothers, Andrew and Jason and other very strong climbers who often trained with out rope or even chalk...the hard way. Then late in the 80's 86, 87 or so J lucus and M McMcdonald and a new crew came along climbed it, all for the first time, again too. The cycle repeats The bolts were added ten years later by Lucho, hand drilling not hanging on a rope, After the climb had seen five or six leads and countless TR ascents (lucho had it as fully wired as that rough but snot slick face allows). There have been many attempts over the decades, to leave permanent anchors and protection, as I herd here on M.P., only the studs survived. The naming of the climbs, the development of the area as a guide zone, all happened when the falcon press book came out.