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A walk on the Swasey Side 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: John Glime, Ryan Cornia- 10/6/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,621
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Oct 7, 2007

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It is all about perspective. Good and narrow, wit...

Description 

Follow the obvious ridge line.

P1: Climb 5.5 past 3 bolts, then follow the ridge to a huge belay ledge.

P2: Move out onto the exposed arete, climb up past a few bolts to the final summit block. 5.6 (This pitch can be scary for the second due to the long traversing nature and potential for a pendulum.)

Rap: We used 2- 50 meter ropes. I am not sure if a single 60 meter rope would work. Rap off of two bolts.

Location 

1/4 mile behind Swasey's Cabin. Depending on where you park your vehicle you may have a 5 minute or a 10 minute approach. See pictures, and you will recognize the formation.

Protection 

Quickdraws... it is like sportclimbing.


Photos of A walk on the Swasey Side Slideshow Add Photo
Follow the skyline ridge.
Follow the skyline ridge.

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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Sandbag! The first pitch is more like 5.7 or 5.8. The second pitch has a hard bouldery move to start that is hard 5.8 or maybe even 5.9. Falling before the first bolt would be a bad idea on both pitches.

This thing is definitely nothing like a sport climb, and a small rack of small to medium cams is a good idea to build an anchor at the top of P1. You can also get in a bit of gear on P2, which helps getting to the high first bolt and to protect the second after the last bolt. The traverses aren't scary for the second, but the runouts are definitely scary for the leader.

Nice tower in a beautiful area. A very atypical desert route. One 60m rope will not reach the ground on the raps, but one 70m probably would.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 18, 2008

Sorry 'bout that... Ross would have called it 5.3, so I was feeling conflicted. :)

I guess it is 5.7ish, and it is just spicy enough to be fun! Atleast I thought it was fun...