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a. The Uberfall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 
Apoplexy 
BB Route 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Black Fly 
Boston 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
Bunny 
CC Route 
Charie 
Clover 
Coronary 
Crimson Corner 
Das Wiggles 
DD Route 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Easy Keyhole 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The 
Eyebrow 
Eyesore 
Fancy Idiot 
Fitschen's Folly 
Flake, The 
Handy Andy 
Harvard 
Heel Hook and Hack-it 
Herdie Gerdie 
Horseman 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 
Jacob's Ladder 
Junior 
Katzenjammer 
Ken's Crack 
Keyhole 
Laurel 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Mitty Mouse  
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Nosedive 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 
Phoebe 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Shit or Go Blind 
Short Job 
Sonja 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Stupid Crack 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Sudoriferous 
Susie A 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:

a. The Uberfall 


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Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011
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Nearing the top of Boston
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

next area: Jackie


Description 

Major Features: The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.

Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'.

For our purposes, routes in this section include the beginning of the cliff -- the big whitish face you pass closest to, just where the carriage road takes a slight turn, is Katzenjammer. We'll end the Uberfall section just past the striking, right-leaning crack, Ken's Crack. The very last route in this section is the corner system of Trapped Like a Rat, which starts with a left-leaning hand crack, just behind the kiosk, the Hans Krauss plaque, and is almost directly across from the vault toilet (the "Uberpooper"). The next section is b. Jackie and friends.

There are two landmarks within the Uberfall: the Gerdie Block is a huge block leaning against the cliff with the routes Herdie Gerdie, Dirty Gerdie, and Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat); on the block's right side is the short crack of Red Cabbage.

Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road.

Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.

Descents from most routes involves walking off; most Uberfall routes are single-pitch. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.


Routes, left-to-right: 

(might add a hand-drawn topo here ...)

Short and Simple: 5.7, G
Birthday Biscuit Boy: 5.9, G
Great Wall of China: 5.9, R
Keyhole: 5.7, G
Katzenjammer: 5.7, PG
The Brat Direct: 5.6, PG
Handy Andy: 5.7, G-PG
Easy Keyhole: 5.2, G
Black Fly: 5.5, G
Nice Crack Climb: 5.7, G
Astro Traveler: 5.10+, PG
Short Job: 5.4, G
69: 5.3, G
No Picnic: 5.4, G
Shit or Go Blind: 5.8, G-PG
Sudoriferous: 5.2, G
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation: 5.8-, G
Heel, Hook, and Hack-It: 5.10-, R-X
Herdie Gerdie: 5.8, PG
Dirty Gerdie: 5.9-, PG
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat): 5.10+
Red Cabbage: 5.9-, G
Red Cabbage Right: 5.10, PG
Friday the 13th: 5.8, R
Fancy Idiot: 5.6, PG
Bunny: 5.4, G
Retribution: 5.10, G (**)
No Solution: 5.12, X (**)
Nosedive: 5.10, G (**)
Double Chin: 5.5, G
Something Scary: 5.10, PG-R
Eyebrow: 5.6, PG
Double Clutch: 5.9+, G
Gill's Boulder Problem: 5.12-, R
Ralph's Climb: 5.8 A3, PG
Sonja: 5.10b, G
Doug's Roof: 5.11+, G
Lower Eaves
Bridal Path: 5.7, PG
Horseman: 5.5, G
Pony Express: 5.6-, PG
Apoplexy: 5.9, PG (**)
Coronary: 5.10, R (**)
Dirty Chimney: 5.0, G
Junior: 5.9+, R
Laurel: 5.7, G (**)
Clover: 5.7, G-PG
Rhododendron: 5.6-, G (**)
Birch: 5.10+, PG-R
Das Wiggles: 5.3, PG
Shitty Mitty: 5.11-, PG-R
Walter Mitty: 5.8, PG
Low Exposure: 5.10+, G
Squiggles: 5.4, G-PG
Dislocation: 5.9, R
Squiggles Direct: 5.10, R
Devine Wind: 5.12-, TR
Jacob's Ladder: 5.10, X
Crowberry Ridge: 5.6, PG
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang: 5.11-, PG
Uberfall Descent: easy 5th, G
Susie A: 5.10+, R-X
The Flake: 5.1, PG
Ken's Crack: 5.7, G
Phoebe: 5.10, R-X
Boston: 5.5-, PG
Charie: 5.10-, TR
Fitschen's Folly: 5.8, R-X
Alphabet Arete: 5.10+, PG
D. D. Route: 5.10, R
CC Route: 5.7-, PG
BB Route: 5.8, G
The Star Route: 5.4, G
Crimson Corner: 5.0, G
Yale: 5.3, PG
Eyesore: 5.6, G
Harvard: 5.2, G
Trapped Like a Rat: 5.7, G


65 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',41],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',11],['5.8',8],['5.9',7],['5.10',13],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for a. The Uberfall:
Uberfall Descent   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c     Trad, 25'   
Horseman   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
No Picnic   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Double Chin   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bunny   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rhododendron   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
CC Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Laurel   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Trapped Like a Rat   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Ken's Crack   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shit or Go Blind   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Apoplexy   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sonja   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nosedive   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Retribution   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Coronary   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, TR   
Low Exposure   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
No Solution   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in a. The Uberfall

Featured Route For a. The Uberfall
Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No Solution goes up the middle.

Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall
This classic route is a left-facing, then a right-facing corner system capped by a crack, immediately right of Retribution.P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor. Rap with a single rope....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of a. The Uberfall Slideshow Add Photo
Laurel is the left crack with climber at the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
Uberfall on the weekend
Uberfall on the weekend
The Uberfall on a typical summer day.
BETA PHOTO: The Uberfall on a typical summer day.
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Ken's Crack on a cold day.
BETA PHOTO: Ken's Crack on a cold day.
Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No Solution goes up the middle.
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
CC Route is the crack on the left.  Note: the climber is on BB Route about 8 feet to the right of CC Route
BETA PHOTO: CC Route is the crack on the left. Note: the clim...
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