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a. The Uberfall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

a. The Uberfall  


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Location: 41.73715, -74.18851 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 109,062
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011
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Along the Cliff 

next area: Jackie

Description 

Major Features: The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.

Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'.

For our purposes, routes in this section include the beginning of the cliff -- the big whitish face you pass closest to, just where the carriage road takes a slight turn, is Katzenjammer. We'll end the Uberfall section just past the striking, right-leaning crack, Ken's Crack. The very last route in this section is the corner system of Trapped Like a Rat, which starts with a left-leaning hand crack, just behind the kiosk, the Hans Krauss plaque, and is almost directly across from the vault toilet (the "Uberpooper"). The next section is b. Jackie and friends.

There are two landmarks within the Uberfall: the Gerdie Block is a huge block leaning against the cliff with the routes Herdie Gerdie, Dirty Gerdie, and Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat); on the block's right side is the short crack of Red Cabbage.

Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road.

Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.

Descents from most routes involves walking off; most Uberfall routes are single-pitch. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.

Routes, left-to-right: 

(might add a hand-drawn topo here ...)

Short and Simple: 5.7, G
Birthday Biscuit Boy: 5.9, G
Great Wall of China: 5.9, R
Keyhole: 5.7, G
Katzenjammer: 5.7, PG
The Brat Direct: 5.6, PG
Handy Andy: 5.7, G-PG
Easy Keyhole: 5.2, G
Black Fly: 5.5, G
Nice Crack Climb: 5.7, G
Astro Traveler: 5.10+, PG
Short Job: 5.4, G
69: 5.3, G
No Picnic: 5.4, G
Shit or Go Blind: 5.8, G-PG
Sudoriferous: 5.2, G
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation: 5.8-, G
Heel, Hook, and Hack-It: 5.10-, R-X
Herdie Gerdie: 5.8, PG
Dirty Gerdie: 5.9-, PG
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat): 5.10+
Red Cabbage: 5.9-, G
Red Cabbage Right: 5.10, PG
Friday the 13th: 5.8, R
Fancy Idiot: 5.6, PG
Bunny: 5.4, G
Retribution: 5.10, G (**)
No Solution: 5.12, X (**)
Nosedive: 5.10, G (**)
Double Chin: 5.5, G
Something Scary: 5.10, PG-R
Eyebrow: 5.6, PG
Double Clutch: 5.9+, G
Gill's Boulder Problem: 5.12-, R
Ralph's Climb: 5.8 A3, PG
Sonja: 5.10b, G
Doug's Roof: 5.11+, G
Lower Eaves
Bridal Path: 5.7, PG
Horseman: 5.5, G
Pony Express: 5.6-, PG
Apoplexy: 5.9, PG (**)
Coronary: 5.10, R (**)
Dirty Chimney: 5.0, G
Junior: 5.9+, R
Laurel: 5.7, G (**)
Clover: 5.7, G-PG
Rhododendron: 5.6-, G (**)
Birch: 5.10+, PG-R
Das Wiggles: 5.3, PG
Shitty Mitty: 5.11-, PG-R
Walter Mitty: 5.8, PG
Low Exposure: 5.10+, G
Squiggles: 5.4, G-PG
Dislocation: 5.9, R
Squiggles Direct: 5.10, R
Devine Wind: 5.12-, TR
Jacob's Ladder: 5.10, X
Crowberry Ridge: 5.6, PG
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang: 5.11-, PG
Uberfall Descent: easy 5th, G
Susie A: 5.10+, R-X
The Flake: 5.1, PG
Ken's Crack: 5.7, G
Phoebe: 5.10, R-X
Boston: 5.5-, PG
Charie: 5.10-, TR
Fitschen's Folly: 5.8, R-X
Alphabet Arete: 5.10+, PG
D. D. Route: 5.10, R
CC Route: 5.7-, PG
BB Route: 5.8, G
The Star Route: 5.4, G
Crimson Corner: 5.0, G
Yale: 5.3, PG
Eyesore: 5.6, G
Harvard: 5.2, G
Trapped Like a Rat: 5.7, G


Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

68 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',23],['5.7',11],['5.8',8],['5.9',7],['5.10',13],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for a. The Uberfall:
Uberfall Descent   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, 25'   
Horseman   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
No Picnic   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Double Chin   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bunny   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rhododendron   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Eyesore   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Laurel   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ken's Crack   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Trapped Like a Rat   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Shit or Go Blind   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mitty Mouse    5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Apoplexy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nosedive   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Retribution   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Sonja   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Coronary   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR   
No Solution   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in a. The Uberfall

Featured Route For a. The Uberfall
Climbing up to the crux

Apoplexy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall
This great route has a bit of everything on it, from scary face climbing with little pro, to a well-protected crux at the end. Start up the face ten feet right of Horseman and aim for a small loose flake. Heaven help the person that falls on the gear placed behind it - it would rip right off the wall! From here you can either escape right to a tree, or climb the real route and head up the roof on the left. Put your game face on, because there are a couple of balancy moves before you get ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of a. The Uberfall Slideshow Add Photo
Laurel is the left crack with climber at the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
Uberfall on the weekend
Uberfall on the weekend
The Uberfall on a typical summer day.
BETA PHOTO: The Uberfall on a typical summer day.
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Ken's Crack on a cold day.
BETA PHOTO: Ken's Crack on a cold day.
Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No Solution goes up the middle.
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
CC Route is the crack on the left.  Note: the climber is on BB Route about 8 feet to the right of CC Route
BETA PHOTO: CC Route is the crack on the left. Note: the clim...

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