a. The Uberfall Rock Climbing
Nearing the top of Boston
Along the Cliff
The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.
Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'.
For our purposes, routes in this section include the beginning of the cliff -- the big whitish face you pass closest to, just where the carriage road takes a slight turn, is Katzenjammer
. We'll end the Uberfall section just past the striking, right-leaning crack, Ken's Crack
. The very last route in this section is the corner system of Trapped Like a Rat
, which starts with a left-leaning hand crack, just behind the kiosk, the Hans Krauss plaque, and is almost directly across from the vault toilet (the "Uberpooper"). The next section is b. Jackie and friends
There are two landmarks within the Uberfall: the Gerdie Block is a huge block leaning against the cliff with the routes Herdie Gerdie
, Dirty Gerdie
, and Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat)
; on the block's right side is the short crack of Red Cabbage
Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive
is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja
, and several other harder cracks, which face the road. Approach:
Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block. Descents
from most routes involves walking off; most Uberfall routes are single-pitch. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent
, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.
(might add a hand-drawn topo here ...)
Short and Simple: 5.7, G Birthday Biscuit Boy
: 5.9, G
Great Wall of China: 5.9, R Keyhole
: 5.7, G Katzenjammer
: 5.7, PG The Brat Direct
: 5.6, PG Handy Andy
: 5.7, G-PG Easy Keyhole
: 5.2, G Black Fly
: 5.5, G Nice Crack Climb
: 5.7, G
Astro Traveler: 5.10+, PG
Short Job: 5.4, G 69
: 5.3, G No Picnic
: 5.4, G Shit or Go Blind
: 5.8, G-PG
Sudoriferous: 5.2, G Suderiferous: 5.8 variation
: 5.8-, G
Heel, Hook, and Hack-It: 5.10-, R-X Herdie Gerdie
: 5.8, PG Dirty Gerdie
: 5.9-, PG Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat)
: 5.10+ Red Cabbage
: 5.9-, G Red Cabbage Right
: 5.10, PG
Friday the 13th: 5.8, R Fancy Idiot
: 5.6, PG Bunny
: 5.4, G Retribution
: 5.10, G (**) No Solution
: 5.12, X (**) Nosedive
: 5.10, G (**) Double Chin
: 5.5, G
Something Scary: 5.10, PG-R Eyebrow
: 5.6, PG Double Clutch
: 5.9+, G
Gill's Boulder Problem: 5.12-, R
Ralph's Climb: 5.8 A3, PG Sonja
: 5.10b, G
Doug's Roof: 5.11+, G Lower Eaves Bridal Path
: 5.7, PG Horseman
: 5.5, G
Pony Express: 5.6-, PG Apoplexy
: 5.9, PG (**) Coronary
: 5.10, R (**) Dirty Chimney
: 5.0, G Junior
: 5.9+, R Laurel
: 5.7, G (**)
Clover: 5.7, G-PG Rhododendron
: 5.6-, G (**)
Birch: 5.10+, PG-R Das Wiggles
: 5.3, PG
Shitty Mitty: 5.11-, PG-R Walter Mitty
: 5.8, PG Low Exposure
: 5.10+, G Squiggles
: 5.4, G-PG
Dislocation: 5.9, R Squiggles Direct
: 5.10, R
Devine Wind: 5.12-, TR Jacob's Ladder
: 5.10, X
Crowberry Ridge: 5.6, PG Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang
: 5.11-, PG Uberfall Descent
: easy 5th, G Susie A
: 5.10+, R-X
The Flake: 5.1, PG Ken's Crack
: 5.7, G Phoebe
: 5.10, R-X Boston
: 5.5-, PG Charie
: 5.10-, TR Fitschen's Folly
: 5.8, R-X
Alphabet Arete: 5.10+, PG
D. D. Route: 5.10, R CC Route
: 5.7-, PG BB Route
: 5.8, G
The Star Route: 5.4, G Crimson Corner
: 5.0, G
Yale: 5.3, PG
Eyesore: 5.6, G Harvard
: 5.2, G Trapped Like a Rat
: 5.7, G
Weather station 2.9 miles from here
73 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',44],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in a. The Uberfall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in a. The Uberfall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for a. The Uberfall:
Horseman 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
No Picnic 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Boston 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Bunny 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Eyesore 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Laurel 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Mitty Mouse 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Apoplexy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Retribution 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Coronary 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
No Solution 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For a. The Uberfall
Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : a. The Uberfall
This classic route is a left-facing, then a right-facing corner system capped by a crack, immediately right of Retribution.P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor. Rap with a single rope....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
BETA PHOTO: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
BETA PHOTO: The Uberfall on a typical summer day.
BETA PHOTO: Ken's Crack on a cold day.
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
BETA PHOTO: CC Route is the crack on the left. Note: the clim...
By Eric Lutz
Feb 21, 2016
Curious why Eyesore doesn't rate a spot here? Climbed it today, still think it's a good time!
Feb 22, 2016
Eyesore is in the list of routes to the left on this page -- its entry is here. If you mean 'why isn't it listed as a 'classic climbing' route?', the answer is that the 'classic climbing' list is chosen not by humans but by an algorithm of MP software, according to stars and number of ratings. Go add a star, if you adore it!