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Wishbone Suspension 

A Tale of Two Sheep 

5.11b

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
FA: ??
Submitted By: kirkadirka on Nov 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Tale of Two Sheep, Way Rambo wall.

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Description 

This is the splitter finger crack that starts from behind a pillar. The opening moves are chimneying up to the top of the pillar where the crack is just a seam. The crack gradually widens and several wider/funkier sections are encountered before reaching the anchors.


Location 

Climber's right and uphill from Wishbone Suspension, maybe 50 yards. Obvious finger crack beginning behind the large detached block.


Protection 

From tips on up to some larger pieces for the wide sections. Multiple finger size pieces may be useful.



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By Wylie
From: Hell, MI
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.11

Pretty sweet route once you clean it out. The splitter BD .4 fingers turn to blue metolious size higher up. When I climbed it every part of the crack was thickly coated with red baby powder dust. Seems like any climb that doesn't get a lot of traffic gets that way after awhile. The powder made for sliding finger locks and a head trip about gear! Still, an awesome, quiet climb free from the horde that is usually at the main part of this wall.