An excellent varied climb. A small roof from the belay leads to easy slabs, then the real business starts. Climb a corner behind a small pillar, clip a piton and pull up on top for a brief rest before the crux, a short overhanging hand crack.
A little steeper and harder than it's neighbor Exotic Dancer.
Far right and uphill from Pumpline and the other Careno Routes.
Standard rack. One rope is enough to rap down.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
FA: Dave Bale, Sean Woods, 2003
Classic! Did this again yesterday and forgot how hard and overhanging it is. I taped up remembering how sharp and burly the hand jam is. Also it goes from #1 camalot to #2 which I can't fit my hands in, then a #3 thank god jam.
I replaced the webbing with chains and cleaned some dirt and loose rocks out.4/6/14.