A Stirring of Air 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | John Bissel |
| Submitted By: | Hank Fisher on Jul 5, 2002 |
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Description The route starts just to the right of Mariscos Lambada directly over a block at the base of the cliff. The crux of this climb is definitely at the start. This makes getting to the second bolt a mental challenge because of the almost certain fall onto the block if missed. The bolt spacing on the route is not for the faint of heart, but if you are going to climb at Rifle....
Protection 7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Description Pitch 1: 39m Begin on the south face. Climb up and right on loose rock, then up a left-facing corner (5.9). Continue angling to a large ledge then traverse right on the ledge to a belay at a left-faceing dihedral.
Pitch 2: 25m Begin up the left-facing dihedral 5.9 on excellect fingers to a rotten section at the saddle between Tom-Tom and TommyKnocker. Build a belay here.
Pitch 3: 20m Continue up east face of spire on bolt ladder with a few placements in between. Belay on bolt at ledge/ bedding seam.
Pitch 4: 29m Walk righton bedding seam and climb first groove, then a 5.10 off-width grovel to the summit.
Descent: Two rappels, first to the top of pitch 1, then to the ground.
| Comments on A Stirring of Air |
|
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 3, 2003
| How come I only found 6 bolts? Hence the scarry run out to the anchors. |
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 14, 2004
| The rap anchors need to be replaced on this route. Just as difficult as the .10c to the right? |
By Josh Beck
Jul 17, 2006
| Looks like at least one hold has broken off low, making this significantly harder - definitely harder than the 10c to the right. |
By nate post
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| This was the hardest 5.9 I have ever done. I almost didn't get the on-sight, and I can usually on sight 5.11a. But this was also my first time climbing in Rifle, so I expected it to be hard but Holy sandbag Batman. The following day I did a handful of 5.10s that I thought where a lot easier. |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2012
| All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy!
Also, the name should be "A Stirring of Air" with two r's, not one. |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2012
| I think the start is the crux on this thing for sure, and there are at least three ways to start this thing. Two different ways at the top of the block and the third way is to start on Brenna, clip the first bolt, and traverse right. I think this is the easiest, and most enjoyable, way to do this climb and makes it more like a real 10a instead of hard 10a or whatever people want to call it. |
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