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A Sphinxter Says What?
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Sphinx
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A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Face the Sphynx T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 R |
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Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Sphynx There's a Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sphynx Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Upper East Face, Sphinx T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Stefan Griebel and Alan Doak, March 2004 |
| Page Views: | 985 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Stefan Griebel on Mar 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor Closure
Details
The Sphinx is also in the closure that typically includes crags closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock
Description
This route is a 1-pitch variation to the Lower East Face route. The first 2 pitches are shared with the Lower East Face route.
P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.
P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!
P3, 5.11a - From the big tree, climb up the ramp with no pro (5.6s) on your left about 50'. The ramp seems to hang in the air a couple hundred feet above the ground, and the exposure as you go up this ramp is awesome! Traverse right on jugs to the base of a short, thin, overhanging crack. There is good gear at the base of the crack (.75" - 1"), and OK gear in the crack (blue/green aliens and/or small nuts). Fingertip-lieback and funky-stem up the crack (crux) to bigger holds and better gear. The crux is over, but the pumpiness isn't! Hang on a little bit longer and crank over the steepness to a restful hand traverse. Traverse right and belay at a tree as for P3 of the Lower East Face route.
To summit, keep traversing, and scramble up an obvious gully to the top. This is class 3 in Rossiter's book, but I would give it a class 4/5. If you stay roped, it is probably 2 pitches to the top.
To descend, downclimb the gully, and rock hop North into Shanahan Canyon.
P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.
P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!
P3, 5.11a - From the big tree, climb up the ramp with no pro (5.6s) on your left about 50'. The ramp seems to hang in the air a couple hundred feet above the ground, and the exposure as you go up this ramp is awesome! Traverse right on jugs to the base of a short, thin, overhanging crack. There is good gear at the base of the crack (.75" - 1"), and OK gear in the crack (blue/green aliens and/or small nuts). Fingertip-lieback and funky-stem up the crack (crux) to bigger holds and better gear. The crux is over, but the pumpiness isn't! Hang on a little bit longer and crank over the steepness to a restful hand traverse. Traverse right and belay at a tree as for P3 of the Lower East Face route.
To summit, keep traversing, and scramble up an obvious gully to the top. This is class 3 in Rossiter's book, but I would give it a class 4/5. If you stay roped, it is probably 2 pitches to the top.
To descend, downclimb the gully, and rock hop North into Shanahan Canyon.
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