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Jailhouse Rock
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A Snitch In Time T 
Cell Break T 
Cellbound T 
Jail Bound T 
Jail Break T 
Margarita Crack T 

A Snitch In Time 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Peggy Buckey & Andy Schenkel, March 1987
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: "A Snitch In Time". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is a little awkward and burly, not necessarily because of the moves required, but rather for the moves you will "probably" be making in distrust and avoidance of certain grainy features. 15 meters left of the left edge of the west face...15 meters left of Cellbound, that is, is a bulge/roof with a left-facing corner and overhead crack present to climb through it. Climb up and over this with the crux being the obvious roof. Watch for loose grains that might spit a foot or hand off.

Descend by climbing up and south over the summit to one of the two possible scrambles that lead down.

Protection 

A standard light rack including a few cams for the crux. Some suspect rock merits careful protection. (With solid judgement or redundant gear, the S rating is lost).


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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 26, 2010

A tad bit of grain, but no particularly bad/suspect on rock on this that I saw, with the exception of the avoidable hollow plates on the far left side of the little ramp before the overhang (which is off route anyway, I traversed in from the downclimb). I think I would have noticed funky rock given that I was soloing. The overhang is a perfect handcrack with big stemming feet on both sides, upper bit is on really good mostly varnished rock. Basically an 8' boulder problem followed by 5.easy to the top.