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A Slice Of Life 
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War and Peace 

A Slice Of Life 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dave Anderson, Tom Bowker 4/9/87 FFA Scott Stevenson 6/88
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: Tom Bowker on Nov 15, 2008
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Description 

Same start as Peer Pressure but climb the left arching corner and crack.


Protection 

Don't trust the pins. One is only a 2" stubby.
normal rack



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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Nov 15, 2008

The FA was 5.9 A2. Done onsight ground up.There was no bolt on the FA. I Don't know if Scott knew how shallow one of the pins were during the FFA!! Nice send Scott.
In Jan of '98 Dave was caught in an avalanche while skiing with friends in Little Cottonwood Canyon,Utah. He broke both legs and hip and managed to survive the evacuation to a waiting helicopter only to die when the copter crashed, killing Dave and three crew members.
This route, "A Slice Of Life" epitomizes Dave's zest for life and how he touched all that knew him.

By Tristan Perry
Nov 16, 2008

Wow Tom, thanks for sharing about both the route and your friend!

I always love to hear about how routes like this one were put up. It's an intimidating piece of rock, alright...I always wanted to do all the routes that Scott S. FA'ed (as a marginally doable challenge/bet with an likewise motivated climbing partner). We always put this one off, as super-overhanging 12a R on gear wasn't something we were sure we wanted to try yet.

As it turns out, the route has been fully equipped with glue-ins in the last few years. I tried it with the bolts once this fall and found it to have the sharpest, spiniest holds I've ever touched. It's very gymnastic and has got an awkward, shouldery power crux. A very impressive send for Scott back in the day on gear and the sketchy pins (some are still there, at least).

I am sad to see it bolted, but I suppose some felt it would get more attention as a bolted route. Either way, one of the few legendary trad challenges of Rumney is no longer the same. I doubt it will get much traffic anyway, in light of the crowd and finger-friendly jug hauling nearby.

As the great outstanding trad testpiece I hope to try someday, I hope the crazy overhanging dihedral Bonzai Pipeline at Wiamea never gets bolted...where else to you find a trad route like that??? Yes, I know it never gets climbed, but it gives you something to look up to.

By johny
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Its not that sharp anymore, but do feel that its more in the 12b or 12c range

Beautiful sustained technical climb that deserves a lot more trafic than it's gotten up to now

very impressive route, especially on sight on gear !

thanks for the info Tom.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 1, 2011

wow! talk about a HARD 12a (felt 12b/c to me by rumney standards even if you might think rumney standards are wimpy haha)! i hang dogged my way up it today and figured all the moves out and completely exhausted my self... yes, its sharp, no, i didnt think it was a classic, yes i will have to go back and send it :)

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 3, 2011

Wow Lee, if you didn't think it was classic, it must be really bad.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 3, 2011

hahahahaha you know me so well jay :)