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Palisade Head
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 
A mind Forever Voyaging 
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Urge to Mate T,TR 
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 
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Wise Guys T,TR 
Withering Heights T,TR 
Yellow Feather T 
Unsorted Routes:

A Sinners Last Gift 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Once a very serious lead, this rowdy pitch was cleaned post FA, and I am sure it has made for better climbing. The route starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15 or so feet right of E. Climb up through overhang and out onto good edges to the seam. Follow the seam up a bit and you hit the crux. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into a bottleneck jam- Follow the ever growing seam/crack as it widends to fingers and ends eventually with 15 feet of handjams and laybacking to large ledge.

Location 

North Anex, right of Ecclesiastes.

Protection 

Single set from .3" to #2 Camalot, two #3 camalots, wires.


Comments on A Sinners Last Gift Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 2, 2008

I think it should be noted that this route has been cleaned since the first ascent, and got easier in all respects...
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

i did not climb this route before it was cleaned, but i can say that it is definitely not 12b/c PG13. it's more like 11c.

regardless of the grading, it's a fun route. the crux moves are similar to -- albeit easier than -- those on mr. lean.

for gear, i'd recommend: two #3 camalots (one as first piece, which is about 15 ft up; the other for the upper 5.9 section), and singles from purple TCU to #2 camalot. nuts if you want; i didn't place any.

be wary of rock about half-way up bottom section (section before the ledge). there's a couple loose flakes in there.