Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 
A Hatch T 
A Ship Called Black Rock T 
An Act of Strange Boar T 
And Say T 
Baby Tapir T,S 
Below Lissen T 
Bobcat Cringe T 
Bowling to Biscuits T 
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 
House of the 7th Bobcat T 
Law and Order T 
Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
Rice Krispies T 
Solitude T 
Steel Pulse T 
This is Index Not L.A. T 
Velvet Pedestal, The T 
You can cool Jackie Robinson T 

A Ship Called Black Rock 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012
Page Views: 2,293
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Derek Pearson at the top of A Ship Called Black Ro...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.

Protection 

For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.

For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.

For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.


Photos of A Ship Called Black Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Nelson climbing the first hard move
Jon Nelson climbing the first hard move
Rock Climbing Photo: Bo styling The Ship Called Black Rock.
Bo styling The Ship Called Black Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon climbing through the crux
Jon climbing through the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon starting the crux moves
Jon starting the crux moves
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon on the starting moves
Jon on the starting moves
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle section of A Ship Called Black Rock, as see...
Middle section of A Ship Called Black Rock, as see...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the starting section from below, A Ship Ca...
View of the starting section from below, A Ship Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper 5.10 section of A Ship Called Black Rock.
Upper 5.10 section of A Ship Called Black Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the first crux on A Ship Called Black Rock.
Below the first crux on A Ship Called Black Rock.

Comments on A Ship Called Black Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Jon or Derek,
I was exploring below the flag at lookout point and climbed the route that looks like it was cleaned right of the V-thread. Fun face with knobs to pulling up on sketchy overlaps avoiding the scary flake and finger lock to hand jamb over bulge. Whats the route on the left with a bolt and horizontal traverse crack? In case you forgot, there is a pull saw and some chain up there.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
May 23, 2014

Hi Geoff,

The one you did must have been the last pitch of Derek's Lookout Point Direct. I thought though that it needed some bolts to safely lead (~5.8).

About the one on the left - I have TRed it, but not lead. That horizontal finger-crack is amazing! Then it turns the corner and becomes a nice hand crack that continues up and left. I hope to put in another bolt or two this summer, clean off the bottom, and lead the thing.
By Ryan Hoover
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climbing. Gave it a little cleaning on the way down, get on it.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wow, the Ship called Black Rock is awesome. I scrubbed the starting area, both the right hand crack and left side finger layback which seems more direct and closer to the 5.10 grade.
By wayne wallace
Sep 28, 2014

really fun stem problem bring a couple tiny stoppers. worthwhile. Looks dirty, but isnt.
By Bill Ayre
Aug 27, 2015

Is this the same as the second pitch of Law and Order in the Stanford Guide or is it a variation?
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 27, 2015

Hi Bill.

No, this is a different pitch. Law and Order is the large left-facing dihedral just left of Black Rock. If cleaned, that would be a great pitch.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!