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 ADVANCED
Lookout Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman 
A Ship Called Black Rock 
An Act of Strange Boar 
Baby Tapir 
Below Lissen 
Bobcat Cringe 
Bowling to Biscuits 
He is Truly a Great Airplane 
House of the 7th Bobcat 
Law and Order 
Peanuts To Serve You 
Purple Kool-Aid 
Rice Krispies 
Solitude 

A Ship Called Black Rock 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Derek Pearson at the top of A Ship Called Black Ro...

Description 

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.


Protection 

For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.

For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.

For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.



Photos of A Ship Called Black Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Nelson climbing the first hard move
Jon Nelson climbing the first hard move
Jon on the starting moves
Jon on the starting moves
Below the first crux on A Ship Called Black Rock.
Below the first crux on A Ship Called Black Rock.
Upper 5.10 section of A Ship Called Black Rock.
Upper 5.10 section of A Ship Called Black Rock.
View of the starting section from below, A Ship Called Black Rock. <br /> <br />The corner that starts just left of this crack is the original second pitch of Law & Order.
View of the starting section from below, A Ship Ca...
Jon starting the crux moves
Jon starting the crux moves
Middle section of A Ship Called Black Rock, as seen from below.
Middle section of A Ship Called Black Rock, as see...
Jon climbing through the crux
Jon climbing through the crux
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