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Fiddlehead
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A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

A Shadow Sickness 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joel Schiavone and Pat Healy, 1980
Page Views: 1,305
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Aug 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Phil making a reach.
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  • Description 

    To approach, follow the faint trail uphill, starting a bit past the huge Superfresh boulder, and head up 50 yards or so and then across the talus to the base of the big, right-facing dihedral. Castles Made of Sand is the bolted line on the smooth slab just right of this corner.

    The climb begins by firing up through the bouldery, overhanging crack at the base of the route (this is the same start shared by Clarence and Castles). This route is rated 5.9 in the Rossiter guide, but this powerful start is solid 5.10 and therefore the route really deserves a 5.10 rating. Continue up the low angle V-slot crack and then split off right at the first roof. Follow this beautiful 5.9 corner system up the steep wall, go right at the final roof, and belay out on the arete at the right edge of the roof. Thoughful and interesting moves, a little bit runout in places off of small nuts or RPs, very fun climbing overall!

    To descend, you can either: (1) 3rd class scramble to the northeast, heading down to the gully between Fiddlehead and the Goose, then down to the bottom of Fiddlehead and back up to the base of the climb, or (2) continue up along the east side of the Fiddlehead to the summit, and rap off the west face. Looks like a pitch or two of easy 5th class climbing. A bolted anchor at the top of the route to allow direct rappeling back to the base would be nice, and would also reduce the chances of people impacting vegetation if/when walking off to the north, but doesn't exist at this time.


    Protection 

    Standard rack including RPs, nuts, and cams to #3 Friend. Some of the pieces you use may be small RPs and therefore a Screamer or two may be useful. Smaller offset Aliens may also be helpful in reducing the runout factor in spots. A cleaning tool for the leader could be considered as the lower 30 feet of the crack has some dirt and growth.



    Photos of A Shadow Sickness Slideshow Add Photo
    Near the bottom of the beautiful corner.
    Near the bottom of the beautiful corner.
    Jesse working the upper dihedral of A Shadow Sickness - nice layback sections with fun, juggy face climbing in between.
    Jesse working the upper dihedral of A Shadow Sickn...
    Tony Bubb up high on 'A Shadow Sickness (5.10a)' on the Fiddle Head of Fern Canyon in the Flatirons above Boulder. Picture by Chris Parks, 2004.
    Tony Bubb up high on 'A Shadow Sickness (5.10a)' o...
    Pete near the top.
    Pete near the top.
    Mark relaxing just after the initial, difficult, opening moves.
    Mark relaxing just after the initial, difficult, o...
    Comments on A Shadow Sickness Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 4, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Pulling into the dihedral, like so many of the routes at this crag, seems to have been ignored in the grade assignment. Indeed, starting off is difficult and hard to protect well- what's more, the landing is poor. That said, I think this is a great climb. Both protection and awesome positive holds appear as needed (but maybe not as desired?) for even the 5.9 leader to be reasonably safe, once you get into the dihedral.

    The climb is deceptively long and really quite good. One of the best pitches at the crag in my opinion and that of my partner. As usual, the disclaimer is that in a larger or better venue, it would be a good climb, not tip-tops/3-stars.

    There is a newly replaced bomber rap anchor up top that should be solid for years. It is set 'low' so that one could also clip a few runners on it and lower off to prevent the problem of a crowded belay/rope drag after pulling the arching crack up top.

    By Aaron Martinuzzi
    Sep 25, 2009

    Up at the East Ridge today, my partner and I were unable to find anything resembling a rap anchor up at the top of A Shadow Sickness. We slung a "horn" with some 1" webbing (one rap ring) and rappelled off of that. A belay can be built off of cams and slung horns on the flakes at the top of the climb.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 27, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    And we found that a few hours later and backed it up with a second piece and a Rapid link. It has an anchor again.

    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Oct 3, 2009

    One more sling added....
    If you are tall, there is a great big nut placement that protects the opening. The upper part of the low angled corner seems insecure, but if you dig out some pine needles, there are some small placements.... Really fun route.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Sep 26, 2011

    The slings were gone, so we added another. Please discuss the issue on this site before you take established anchors.... It was probably some newb excited at finding some gear.