Lots of variety on this climb: chimney moves, a roof to pull and tricky face climbing. Not a routine 5.9.
Starting at an obvious chimney, climb up to where the chimney turns into a left-facing corner just below a small roof. Grunt through the roof to a nice ledge, where you can rest and take stock of the thin, bulgey section to come. Finesse past the bulge and continue past a tree ledge to the anchors.
Starts about 15' right of Broken Arrow.
Mostly small to medium cams and passive pro. Shares anchors with Broken Arrow.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I would not recommend this to a 5.9 leader. The crux gear below the roof is very tricky and not a great stance. I used RP's and a 2.5 tricam. The move over the roof and the next move from the following stances are both not 5.9. The + just means your about to get sandbagged. Felt like both of these moves were just as hard if not harder than it's neighbor Broken Arrow, which is a 10a.