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A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) 
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A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Fischesser, Lovenshimer, Wilson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: BradWilson on Dec 22, 2013
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Description 

This is an interesting alternate finish to the popular route "Seconds" up a fun, small, and obvious groove. It entails two short-lived, fun 5.10- crux sequences separated by quality moderate grooving up high on the mountain. The only steep run out is the one you can see from P4 anchors of Seconds. We chose not to place a bolt here hoping not to distract or confuse parties climbing "Seconds."


Location 

After sharing the first bolt on P5 of seconds, down climb back down and left and then back up using the awesome holds on the dike. A committing mantle (5.10-) is followed by a moderate 5.7 run out. The second bolt is above the overlap and was purposefully hidden from the P4 anchors of Seconds. Follow the fun Groove up to the "Lower Lost World" where you can find a great directional before you traverse right and delicately slab your way to the shared anchors with Seconds. 140'

The second pitch of this variation climbs up and left over the bulge (Seconds climbs up and right). After the bulge follow a fun moderate groove. 125'

The last pitch continues up the same groove passing the death flake and then a moss pad. Leaving the moss pad you will find another interesting crux section protected by a bolt. You will find the anchors above and slightly right by another moss pad. 150'


Protection 

A typical LK rack will suffice, and bring a C4 #3. This groove yielded few natural placements and is primarily bolt protected groove climbing. The route shares P4 anchors with Seconds as well as the P5 anchors. The P6 anchors are new, and the final anchors are shared with Seconds. All belays have two stainless ring anchors.



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