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A Quarter and a Half 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michelle Locatelli, Gary Fike
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Sep 5, 2010
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Quarter and a Half

Description 

Hard, bouldery moves lead to tricky finger locks. Gear is tricky to place, especially at the beginning. This route is given 5.8 in the book, so I gave it that grade as well. I felt that this thing was 10/10+.


Location 

This climb is toward the left hand side of the cliff. Locate the curving crack that starts about halfway up the wall, and then look right for a right leaning finger sized crack that joins up with a wide corner. Start on a ledge that is about 6 feet off the ground.


Protection 

double set of cams to #2 camalot, a #4 camalot could be used as well, but is not needed. Small wires are helpful.



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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Could probably use a new anchor at some point.

By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Good nuts and thin gear. Not an 8.