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Bibliothek
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100 Years of Solitude 
A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man 
All The Pretty Horses 
Everything That Rises Must Converge 
Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock, The 
No Country for Old Men 
Resuscitation of a Hanged Man 
Short, Happy Life of Francis Macomber, The 
Stranger, The 
tea at the Palaz of Hoon 
Unbearable Lightness of Being, The 
Who Pooped in the Park? 

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 69'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ron Bateman, Josh Thurston, Betsey Adams. 2008.
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Nov 4, 2010
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Getting started on the route. October 2010.

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Description 

Step up off the ground and pull some fun moves trending a bit left. It becomes apparent quickly what kind of climbing you'll be doing...steep, continuous pulling on mostly good pockets as you fight the pump towards the top. An obvious crux comes about 2/3rds the way up as the holds lessen in jugability. Some less-than-obvious holds help here. Climb better holds to the finish.


Location 

Just left of The Unbearable Lightness of Being starting between the large boulder and the cliff. When lowering, you'll end up on this boulder.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains.



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Having tons of fun on this overhung jug haul!
BETA PHOTO: Having tons of fun on this overhung jug haul!
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By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011

I liked this route; it stays pumpy all the way to the end, well past the crux. Quite a fight and no big rest before the anchors, unlike its 11c neighbor to the right.