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Face climbing followed by stemming on less-than-vertical terrain, followed by some exciting stemming under an overhang (it's hard to call it a roof because it is so rounded.) The chains are just above the overhang.
There is a fair amount of loose material on this route and we liberated several baseball-sized stones as well as a number of marble-sized pieces. The loosest section is runout about fifteen feet; fortunately the climbing through the section is fairly easy stemming. The only anxiety arises from looking down between your legs and thinking that you're getting kind of far from the previous bolt.
This climbs an obvious, shallow trough to an overhang. Above and behind the overhang a deep crevice continues. This is located shortly before the outside corner in the wall, beyond which are constructed terraces.
9 bolts to chain anchors with cord backup. The last bolt is non-obvious; it is on the left side of the overhang near the top.
From: Orem, UT
Sep 10, 2007
This must be the climb that is listed as a project in Jason Steven's Maple Canyon guide book.
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I recommend avoiding this route. I climbed it last week, pulled off a grapefruit-sized cobble in the runout section high up, and barely hung on to avoid a huge whipper. This thing is DIRTY and has lots of loose cobbles. Beware!
|By Mr. Hummus|
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 25, 2013
I thought this route was really fun. Different from traditional cobble pulling moves at maple. Tread lightly and don't pull out on the cobbles! It's solid enough if you're careful.